Brake Question
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bluebirdbiker posted 45 weeks ago.
It could be a number of things. Check these:
1) screw from caliper to fork is too tight. This can seize it up and prevent it from openning and closing easy, just loosen it;
2) the cable may be wet and a bit rusty inside. Replace or WD40 it;
3) slack could have accumulated in the wire; and/or
4) cable could be too long or short.
Hope this helps.
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kylie posted 45 weeks ago.
I believe there is a spring in the caliper that does the reopening... perhaps it needs to be played with?
theShiba mentioned this in the other tire rub thread this week: "This could also be an issue with your brake springs if you have one spring on each side (I forget if side-pulls have one spring or two)... If you pop the spring out, you can bend it a little bit to add or release tension from the side that is pulling too far, or not pulling far enough...." which is basically what I was thinking of here.
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goldsmithnb posted 45 weeks ago.
i had gatorade from my aerobottle spilling down in there, and it caused the exact same problem. i had it washed out with hot water and it works fine now
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UFTriGator posted 45 weeks ago.
If you haven't messed with it lately and it just all of a sudden started doing that, the most likely causes are either grit (or dried gatorade) in the housing or a kink in the cable. Try cleaning it out first. If that doesn't work, it's probably kinked and you need a new cable and housing.
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RV posted 45 weeks ago.
UFTriGator;78587 wrote:
If you haven't messed with it lately and it just all of a sudden started doing that, the most likely causes are either grit (or dried gatorade) in the housing or a kink in the cable. Try cleaning it out first. If that doesn't work, it's probably kinked and you need a new cable and housing.
Ya, a combination of sweat and Gatorade caused the same issue with mine. The thorough cleaning seems to have remedied it for me. Tho if my bike split is slow at IMWI this weekend - I am prepared to use the 'Lance' excuse of my brake pad rubbing! ;)
RV
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Triguy98 posted 45 weeks ago.
Definately check the housing. Like to keep your housing nice and clean? Get the tools and cut the length yourself. Apply a teflon/ silicone lube to the inside so that its dripping out, let dry. Seal the cable caps with heat shrink tubing. I've got all this on my MTB that runs flawlessly. Will be re doing the tri bike soon.
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PJT posted 45 weeks ago.
I should have specified in the first post, but I did replace the housing at the same time as the cable. Still no go.
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rjkowski posted 45 weeks ago.
Here's a long shot, but I'll ask anyway: Did you recently install a bento box? If you have external cable routing and you pinch the brake cable between the Bento box and frame, you will get the symptom you are describing.
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PJT posted 45 weeks ago.
No bento box this year, plus the routing is internal.
I took off the rear caliper and gave it a good cleaning yesterday. I also shortened the housing where it leaves the top tube so it didn't have a big bend in it (the bike store had set it up that way; I just copied them when I put in the new cable & housing).
That seems to have done the trick. Thanks all.
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Ryan posted 45 weeks ago.
I have a Cervelo dual and had the same problem. Its due to cable damage/wear inside the internal tube. You most likley need to have the internal cables replaced. I replaced all of mine for about $40 and the bike breaks/shifts great. No more problem.
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OK, my turn to ask for help.
After I stop squeezing the rear brake lever on my tri bike, the caliper is not returning to the open position but instead remains closed with the pads rubbing the wheel rim. I've unscrewed the barrel adjuster to max, opened the pinch bolt and retightened the cable, and even replaced the cable with no success.
Could it be something with the caliper? It's a Cervelo dual pivot side pull, which is less than 1 year old. Brake lever is the no-frills Dia Comp that came with the bike. Do I just not have the cable tight enough?
Thoughts?