I race on clinchers, but have heard of people putting a spare tire (or tubes, if you like) in their special needs bag. That way, if you must change the tire during the first half of the race you can retrieve another spare in case of a mishap in the second half.

Of course if you roll through some glass and flat both tires at once you are up the proverbial creek.

Two spares. One on the bike the other in special needs if I flatten on the first lap...if it's one big loop,wo spares on the bike....and make sure your current rubber is good...

I race and flatted my rear tubular at IMAZ. Chaning a tubular is NOT hard. It's easier than a clincher. Just make sure your spare has been well streched mounted on a wheel. All you need to do is pry off the tire from the rim using your tire lever and then you can just rip it off. The spare mounts super fast, pump it up good with your CO2 and it WILL hold! I raced over 80 miles on a spare with no problems and still manged to qualify for Kona :). Don't fear the tubee, they are simple. I carry one spare, one CO2, one tire lever, and one MicroInflate and leave an extra spare and CO2 in special needs.
DO NOT use the Vittoria PitStop! If you do and the puncture won't seal, it makes a huge mess and wastes time. Just change it and go.

Does Vittoria Pit Stop work well with the ZIPP Valve extensions?

i raced last IM Wisc on tubulars with Vittoria Pit Stop. Put the stuff in the tire before you put on the valve extension. Then put the tire on the rim.

It worked well for me last year. I didnt carry a spare with me, as the pit stop will hold for for at least a day if you get a hole. I noticed the next day that i had a small crack on brand new tires, the pit stop was what plugged the hole and allowed me to race.

I put a extra tubular in my special needs bag. that way support could get it if need be.

One of the great things about this forum is that I am always picking up little tidbits of information from you guys. I am signed up for IMARIZ and have never been in a special needs bag situation. The idea of putting an extra, extra tire or tube in a special needs seems so simple and obvious...yeah, now that I have heard it. Thanks

Tip for getting your tubulars off - if you're worried.

I always leave a stretch of the rim (maybe 4 inches) on the opposite side from the valve (so I can remember where it is). The area with no glue will make it easier to get the tire off without having to carry any tools.

REI offers a basic bike maintenance clinic if there is one near you. Or call the shop and ask them to set up a time to help you fix a flat by talking you through it -- if they aren't willing, look at other shops in your area ;)

But if you are stuck to online, Sheldon Brown (a pretty well-respected name in bike maintenance, etc) has an article up: http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html. It doesn't have too many images though.

Looks like there are a couple videos on youtube like http://youtube.com/watch?v=bAa0iN4wrhU. Although I didn't watch the whole thing so can't comment on if i do it the same :)

and 40deg temps, too...

So, back on topic..

1. Pre-stretch the tubular tire, loop it around your foot and pull hard on it - avoid damaging the valve stem or hang it for a couple of days over a door handle (over a towel to avoid kinking the tire) with a weight on the tire, again, avoid kinking the rubber.
How much stretching you ask? Try it on the rim to see when it is easy to apply. If it goes on easy, it is stretched enough. Obviously this is something to be done a week or more before the day of need, but if it is not pre-stretched you can still get it on the rim. It just needs strong thumbs.

Glue - you can apply glue to the tire and let it dry for several days - say, hanging on the door handle. That is enough adhesive to secure it on the day of need without worrying about rolling it off the rim and doing a Beloki. I am assured this is very unlikely - a freak accident. Almost nobody rides a wheel as hard as those guys do anyway, especially not in a TT like an Ironman.

2. Applying the spare: As Kiwi noted above, a glueless patch opposite the valve stem will give you a place where you can get a grip on the tube to pull it off the rim. Set the flat tire aside. If standing, fit the valve of the (uninflated) new tire in place, then pull that part of the tire / wheel into your lap. Begin fitting the tire on the rim by working it into place with each hand moving up the rim away from you. With 3/4s of the tire in place you will need to force the tire onto the remaining rim with your thumbs. Get your thumbs underneath the tire and slide the edge over the rim. If it is sufficiently pre-stretched it should pop on with only a little effort. If it feels like you are breaking your thumbs, get someone to pull from the other side.

3. Inspect that the tire is centred on the rim all the way around and inflate it. It should fit on the bike even when inflated but if your brake blocks are set very close it may be easier to mount the wheel before inflating.

Glue is not strictly necessary. 100lbs of air pressure makes the tire very hard to remove. Try it and see for yourself. Applying glue on the road then trying to install a tubular on the rim is a VERY messy job, best not done on race day. Pre-glue as above several days before, let it dry. It is enough.

PoC

I used Tufo's version of PitStop, and I carry two Co2, a Microflate, and a spare Tubular.

After the last race, I found several spots where the 'Slime' had sealed a small puncture. For what it's worth, I'd rather ride the last 10 miles down a few psi, rather than changing a tire tubular or not!

and thanks POC---your description is greatly appreciated- if only i could have the internet and your advice DURING the race (: Anyone looking for a job as a race assistant? you can run next to me during the race and fix any necessary problems (: o geez if only!

Congrats on facing one of your fears for the race and getting through it! :)

I'm a newcomer to the sport (1 year into it) and new to this thread. I love the sport and see myself involved in it for several years to come.

I am considering purchasing a set of race wheels (leaning toward an "all-purpose" race set that I can use on all distances - Did Sprints (Pawling, Harriman, CT) and Olympic distances (NYC/Nautica, Westchester) this season and my plan for 2008 is similar with one or two Half-IM's. I think there is an IM in my future, but I'll focus on one season at a time...

So my anxiety is that: 1) it seems that tubular are faster, assuming you have good roads and can pump them up to say 130-150psi w/o fear of bouncing over road imperfections (this is very much the norm on the courses that I've been on), 2) Fixing a flat in a race means stripping and replacing the tire w/o glue and technical courses with tight turns would make me worry about the tire coming off the rim.

I like the simplicity of having all clincher wheels - So my first Q is:

Would it be a big mistake to go for a clincher race wheelset??

and second question is:

Which would work best for the kind of courses that I'm doing (short/medium) in the northeast ?? Zipp 404, 606, 808??

Is a disc beneficial in these races? If I purchased a rear disc, would there be races where it would inadvisable to use?

Any more experienced triathlete's care to chime in??

thanks - $$ are a constraint for me and, planning on one race set makes the 404 clincher the best value..