Need suggestions!
When I break stuff, I always use it as an opportunity to upgrade...if I can afford it! For the last three years I've been using Bontrager XXX Carbon Tubular...a great wheel...but they make sweet aluminium wheels too.
"What would life be if we had no courage to attempt anything?" - Vincent Van Gogh
My Blog: http://anton.trifuel.net
i second the upgrade. i have easton tempest II's that i like.
I know there are different sizes of wheels... but i am not sure what i have to follow when buying a new one. My old twheel says .. 292 mm 6061-T6 622-16 and it is a Xero Lite XSR-3
I have no idea what these numbers mean? Any help?
Any 700c wheel will work. Almost all wheels you can buy right now are 700c, so don't worry too much about it. The width of the rim might mean you have to readjust the brake calipers, but that's about it.
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-Matt
Not fast enough.
Wheels are one of the best bike upgrades you can undergo...you just need to determine your BUDGET. You can spend $200 to $5000+ on wheels for your bike. The good news is that it is an investment because if you get a new bike in the future you can keep the wheels (at least that's what I tell my wife). The bad news here is that you have less than a week to make a decision. You can find some great deals on the Internet if you have an idea of what you want. Good luck!
I was planning on upgrading my wheels next year but maybe I will just do it now instead. I was looking at the HED-3 wheels or the HED Alps. I read that (for me) it would be better to get the Alps because i am only about 116. It said for a lighter female weighing about 110 should get those. So if i did get the HED-3 would they not be as effective because i don't weigh as much?
Also, should i be looking at getting a set of wheels instead of just the new front one? I like to match so i am leaning that way if i can afford it.
There are also options weather to choose A Campagnolo or Shimano hub. what is the difference? And can somebody explain the difference to be between a clincher and a tubular tire? The Alps only come in clincher.
One more ? Am I able to train and race with these wheels that i have mentioned??
Sorry i have a lot of questions. I know nothing about wheels!!
Thanks!!
1. Campy hubs would require a Campy cassette and derailleur. Shimano require Shimano components (or SRAM, which is generally Shimano-compatible). Check your rear derailleur, 99% of the time you will have Shimano.
2. Clinchers are the tires that have a separate inner tube and the pressure of the tube coupled with the rim and tire shapes cause the tire to "clinch" the inside of the rim. Tubulars have the tube built in and need to be glued to the wheel. If you don't know what you have, 100% of the time you have clinchers.
Alps strike me as more "racing only" type wheels -- they are lightweight, but will be more susceptible to damage than a typical training wheel.
What about Zipp 343. Could i get by with those for training and racing?
I guess I'd view any of those higher end aero wheelsets (Zipp, Hed, etc.), with the possible exception of the Hed 3, as racing only. My thought is this -- they may or may not be as strong as a solid affordable training wheel, but they are a LOT more expensive. If you ride enough, wheels will get damaged--the trick is to minimize the expense if it happens outside of a race. If you're leaning towards a set of expensive race wheels, I'd really think about just spending the extra $100 on a bombproof front training wheel simply to protect your investment. Check out ebay or your LBS, people pull perfectly good easton or bontrager wheels off of new bikes and these can be had for relatively little money. You could also look for Alex or some other brands (chime in here folks--what are some other solid training wheels?).
Performance Bike...or any type of shop like that will have a bunch of mass produced,stock wheels...I know some folks shudder at having to go near a shop like that...but the wheels can be had at a good price and they are well done. If you are looking for a good training wheel...they can be a great place to go.
All those numbers you mentioned earlier...
292 mm around, 6061-T6 is the kind of aluminum they are made of. The other numbers are stock and model numbers.
Any 700 will work fine...while I have training wheels...I ride my carbon race wheels most of the time...just like the ride.
"What would life be if we had no courage to attempt anything?" - Vincent Van Gogh
My Blog: http://anton.trifuel.net





I was riding on Sunday and got my front wheel stuck in between two boards on a bridge. :( It knocked me off my bike and the bike stayed put unfortunately bending my front rim beyond repair. I have a sprint tri this Saturday and need to get something by then. My question to you guys is: Would you spend about 100 dollars and get the same wheel. Or try and upgrade since i have to spend the money anyways? Any suggestions on wheels???