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Bigger Achievment: HIM or Climbing 5.12a?

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started by Pete L. on August 11, 2007

I used to be a fairly avid rock climber before I got married and started doing triathlons. Today I finished my first Half Iron Distance race, and thinking about how it compares to the achievement of climbing 5.12b (which is the hardest I ever climbed).

In as far as you can really compare these two very different sports, I kind of feel like they're comparable in a really abstract sense. It probably takes about the same number of hours to get to the point where you could do either. I'd like to hear any other climber/tri geek chime in on it.

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Red5 posted 1 year ago.

I climb as well, although never a 5.12b pitch. I did a 5.11 in Moab Utah this year but had to grab a bolt to do it. That's impressive, especially if you did it clean with no stops. Obviously they are evry different, one be VERY technical and skill driven, the other being a long duration endurance challenge. As such, I would say your Half IM finish is the larger accomplishment simply in terms of the time committed to the campaign, even though fewer people may have ever climbed a 5.12.

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Of course it's 'effing hard, it's IRONMAN!

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Pete L. posted 1 year ago.

Red5, I was thinking that a good way to measure would be to do what you said. Figure out what percentage of climbers ever redpoint 5.12b and then figure out how many triathletes finish a half ironman.

One of the reasons I do triathlons is because I'm naturally not good at it. It just feels soooo haaard. Climbing is really natural for me, and after I do Coeur d'Alene, I'm going to go back to climbing with what I learned from training something that is this hard.

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Anton posted 1 year ago.

I don't think you can relate the two...Physically they can't be compared...there are too many variables.
How can you compare two completely different things...Climbing is hard at times but doesn't require the constant physical movement of tri's...or the training...Tri's are hard but death is much less of a possibility.
Is the 5.12 long or short...face climbing crimps or a horror show Off-width...one pitch or eight? I've done bigwalls ,alpine climbs, solos and hard 5.11 on sight (ten years ago mind you)...I've done 5.8 fist cracks that were harder and far longer than some 50 foot 5.11 with a bolt every three feet. It's like trying to compare one tri course to another. They are often so different. I'd relate an HIM to a long hard route, (The North Buttress of Middle in Yosemite or D-7 on Longs Peak) an IM to something longer (But still do-able in a day) like the West Buttress of the Big Stone or maybe the Northcutt-Carter on Hallett Peak. Only double IM's and above or multi day adventure races really compare to multi-day big walls.
And all this is just physical...what about the mental aspect? Showing up and doing the mass start of an IM is nothing terror wise compared to a choss ridden alpine pitch with no pro or a bunch of A 4-5 hook moves off a string of bad rurps and tied off knife blades...
I'm feeling too that tri's are just as technical and skill driven as climbing...but it's a completely different skill set....one that you have to master to be successful (whatever that means to you.)
And since the question Pete is what's the bigger achievement...I can't say...better to ask what's Your biggest climbing achievement and your biggest Triathlon achievement.

"What would life be if we had no courage to attempt anything?" - Vincent Van Gogh
My Blog: http://anton.trifuel.net

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wilsondaj posted 1 year ago.

Just to chirp in, I would say that doing a 5.12b is harder then doing a HIM, in that less people out of a 100 random people could actually ever do it. That being said, I kinda think finishing a HIM is more of an accomplishment... actually thought about it some more, and I am not so sure, if there was a climb you had worked on for months straight trying to nail all the moves then put it all together the day you finally got it all right would feel pretty damn good too...

Its kinda a neat question, cause the sports are similar in some wierd way, both reward steady consistant work with steady improvement which is what I think I have always liked about both sports.

In conclusion... I have no idea which is more rewarding, but if you've managed to do both in your life I salute you !

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fittycent posted 1 year ago.

With the passage of time - whichever you look back on with more pride - that's the bigger achievement.

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fittycent posted 1 year ago.

Anton;75829 wrote:
...face climbing crimps or a horror show Off-width...one pitch or eight...a choss ridden alpine pitch with no pro or a bunch of A 4-5 hook moves off a string of bad rurps and tied off knife blades...

What dialect is this? ;)

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tri-ac posted 1 year ago.

i'd say climbing is the bigger achievement because climbing has some more fundamentally dangerous requisite tests of strength, endurance, flexibility & agiility...no room for error. drowning and high speed bike crashes are the best arguments for the tri side, but those can be controlled by the athlete by finding a kayak prior to losing it or slowing down. hours into a climb, you only have yourself and a buddy or two to overcome gravity

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kylie posted 1 year ago.

tri-ac;75884 wrote:
i'd say climbing is the bigger achievement because climbing has some more fundamentally dangerous requisite tests of strength, endurance, flexibility & agiility...no room for error. drowning and high speed bike crashes are the best arguments for the tri side, but those can be controlled by the athlete by finding a kayak prior to losing it or slowing down. hours into a climb, you only have yourself and a buddy or two to overcome gravity

I don't think achievement is necessarily related to how dangerous something is. I think it's all about the pride you have in reaching the goal.

That said, the biggest achievement is the one you take more pride in :) It might be a tie, that's ok!

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Esteban posted 1 year ago.

I stoped climbing when i got married. I climbed 12.a to 12.c In my good years. I say 12.a is like a sub 4:40 on a half Iron, or a 2:50 marathon. A 35 min 10 K or a 58 Second 100 meter swim.

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Anton posted 1 year ago.

fittycent;75872 wrote:
What dialect is this? ;)

This is REAL climbing language...I could start talking about chicken heads and nostrils or mashies,bashies and copperheads and throw in the odd comment about a "funkness device."
Or I could really mess with folks and mention expanding cracks and jugs...or French technique (but that's ice climbing.)

But whatever...all my successes, in tri's or climbing, pale in comparison to being a successful father or a good son...

Who wants to catch some air?

"What would life be if we had no courage to attempt anything?" - Vincent Van Gogh
My Blog: http://anton.trifuel.net

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PrinceofClydes posted 1 year ago.

Pete L.;75819 wrote:
I used to be a fairly avid rock climber before I got married and started doing triathlons. Today I finished my first Half Iron Distance race, and thinking about how it compares to the achievement of climbing 5.12b (which is the hardest I ever climbed).

In as far as you can really compare these two very different sports, I kind of feel like they're comparable in a really abstract sense. It probably takes about the same number of hours to get to the point where you could do either. I'd like to hear any other climber/tri geek chime in on it.

I fell off a rock-climbing wall once, onto the concrete. My hip was stiff for a week. Never did it again.

However biased I may be (and I don't think I am) I can state objectively that completing a HIM is a piece of cake compared with a 5.12- anything!

Winning a HIM may be as tough, but just going 70.3? A walk in the park.

My hat is off to anyone who can contemplate scaling a 5.12

Silly question.

PoC
Clydes can't climb.

"Pain doesn't last, chicks dig scars, glory is forever!"
- Shane Falco.

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PrinceofClydes posted 1 year ago.

Anton;75829 wrote:
I don't think you can relate the two...Physically they can't be compared...there are too many variables.
How can you compare two completely different things....

Just for the sake of the conversation, Anton, nothing more..

Of course you can compare these two things - you just choose the variables you want to compare. We do it all the time. Never mind the old "apples and oranges" conundrum. I like Brahms better than AC/DC, so what?

1. Take Risk as a parameter for example.

Going 70.3 is within the scope of any average athlete who can dog paddle and owns a bike. What's the risk? A blister on your little toe? For any averagely fit, healthy individual a 70.3 is a doddle.

Climbing a 5.12 is a life threatening experience. For experts only, and on a closed course. Do not try this at home.

2. Energy demands? Well, Pete didn't say how long the pitch was, but Lynn Hill could probably do it in a lunch break and barely break a sweat. Even the best Pro tri-athletes are going to be exhausted at the end of 70.3 miles if they do it at their usual race pace. Your Age Groupers might need an IV afterwards and definitely aren't going to be in great shape the next day.
What this highlights is that relatively speaking a 5.12 is a sprint (even though you don't 'rush" at it) and the 70.3 is an endurance event.

3. Speed - covered in the above #2.

4. Equipment needs, vis-a-vis costs/weight? Well we know you need a list of stuff for HIMs as long as your arm but you don't carry all of it at once and costs vary - 'cos you can use 2nd hand stuff, borrowed stuff or used stuff, but you don't climb a 5.12 with used, 2nd-hand or borrowed stuff! At least I wouldn't. And there won't be a lot of it, weight wise for obvious reasons.

and so on.

I think questions like these are fun to think about. Sometimes they lead to interesting revelations. Sometimes they just help kill a little time. Thanks Pete.

PoC

"Pain doesn't last, chicks dig scars, glory is forever!"
- Shane Falco.

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Anton posted 1 year ago.

And this goes back to my point..(just for conversation) what is the nature of the experience?
Is the 5.12 or 5.10 or heck 5.6 for that matter a top rope situation or is there a ground fall risk? I don't care if it's 5.14, if it's 40 feet high on a top rope there is little risk...and if led...the experience is different for the leader than it is for the second especially if there is little or poor protection...
And all this opens up the whole ratings thing...ratings are so difficult to nail down..is it one move of 5.12 or a dozen in a row...depending on where in the country you climb, they would be rated differently...
You think triathletes have a lot to debate...you should hang out with climbers!

"What would life be if we had no courage to attempt anything?" - Vincent Van Gogh
My Blog: http://anton.trifuel.net

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PrinceofClydes posted 1 year ago.

I wish I knew more about climbing so I could respond intelligently here.
I understand the top rope thing vi-a-vis risk reduction. The climb ratings are relevant. Since you press me.. my point is rather that triathlon is low risk in the relevant areas compared with climbing - notwithstanding various qualifiers we could employ.

Articles have appeared over the years comparing sports to determine the "Toughest sport" - I believe Heavyweight Pro Boxing was considered the toughest in that one. It is subjective to a degree so qualifying the question carefully helps in keeping the issues clear and up front.
Pete's question was simply put and invited all kinds of comparisons (which we indulged in) - he might even have been bragging a little (we forgive you Pete).

At some visceral level the appeal of a sport is couched in the perception of the athlete who is thinking about doing the sport.

I'm chicken. I don't want to fall off anything, rope or no rope, so I view rock climbing as a high- risk activity and doing a HIM as a doddle: a nice morning swim, a 90k bike, then a 20k brick. It builds an appetite. Nice.

and I know others may be horrified at the thought, so be it.
If it was easy, everybody would do it.

PoC

"Pain doesn't last, chicks dig scars, glory is forever!"
- Shane Falco.

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tri-ac posted 1 year ago.

kyillee;75906 wrote:
I don't think achievement is necessarily related to how dangerous something is. I think it's all about the pride you have in reaching the goal.

That said, the biggest achievement is the one you take more pride in :) It might be a tie, that's ok!

the sense of pride is relative to the individual. so the expert doing something for many years gets a sense of pride and accomplishment over everincreasing feats, whereas the beginner has sights set differently for equal amounts of pride

the danger makes the achievement more difficult and may be an easier method to actually compare the two events

when you compare apples and oranges, you need something to hang the argument on...mortal danger just seems to be the most measurable to me for this particular question

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Anton posted 1 year ago.

I LOVE this! Thanks Pete! A thread on trifuel that's about something totally different!
Of course danger is relative...I'm thinking of the three folks who slammed into each other at 40 mph going down the 9k drop at IMLP...race over.
And Pete..if you got up 5.12, i don't care if it was a top rope or runout with manky pro....good on you!

"What would life be if we had no courage to attempt anything?" - Vincent Van Gogh
My Blog: http://anton.trifuel.net