Suggestions for Tri Cycle Shoes
2455
Member
1333 days
Triguy98 posted 1 year ago.
Leave the shoes on the bike via the bubber band technique. No slipping on your cleats.
I like both Shimano's and Specialized tri shoes.
You'll be shocked at what a difference carbon road shoes and road cleats will have on your riding.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
9
Member
901 days
oldfartrunner posted 1 year ago.
I thought unless you were an elite you could not leave your cycle shoes on the bike. And if you do leave them on the bike, do you just go barefoot with dirt and pebbles on your feet into the bike ride?
2960
Member
1370 days
Anton posted 1 year ago.
Depends on the race...most allow shoes on the bike...some don't.
I just never got the hang of that to be honest...getting in the shoes on the bike...so I slap em on in transition... haven't fallen in ten years...practice.
I use Look pedals and Specialized shoes (recommended by Triguy) and love em! If you're going to run out of T1 in your shoes...avoid Speedplay...can get jammed with mud peebles and whatnot.
"What would life be if we had no courage to attempt anything?" - Vincent Van Gogh
My Blog: http://agingsuperhero.blogspot.com
2455
Member
1333 days
Triguy98 posted 1 year ago.
IM distance races are the only ones that disallow AGers to leave the shoes on the bike.
Youd be surprised how not dirty your feet are, even after running through a grassy transition area. If you DO have something hitching a ride on your feet, one swipe with your hand should be sufficient.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
111
Member
623 days
bhanrah posted 1 year ago.
Shoes are a must. I have the Sidi t1.5 and the fit my foot incredibly well, and I wear them without socks. (less time in T1 baby!)
1127
Member
987 days
UFTriGator posted 1 year ago.
I say go ahead and try the flying mount....with a little bit of practice it's not too hard. If you still want to run in your shoes, the shimano SPD-SL cleats are probably the easiest to run in since they have the rubber corners; they'll just wear down faster, but at less than $20 for cleats, it's not that big of a deal.
+1 on the carbon like Triguy said. I use Specialized S-Works and think they're awesome. They go on just as easy as tri shoes, even when already riding at ~25 mph, and they can be pulled tighter to fit better IMO.
______________________________________________
-Matt
Not fast enough.
17
Member
616 days
getdusty posted 1 year ago.
I have Shimano carbon soled shoes so I didn't want to be slipping around with a cleat like the Keo... I love the Shimano shoes because they fit my wider foot and are really easy to enter without getting caught up in the cranks. The dura ace cleats (work on the Ultegra and 105 pedals too) have a nice wide base and are easy to walk on. I just upgraded from mountain bike shoes too so I can't comment on durability but everything I read says the Shimano cleats are very durable...
If you decide to keep them locked to the pedals I'd try mounting and dismounting a number of times with your bike locked in a trainer. It takes a little getting used to but I found for me starting with the left pedal at 11:00 my left hand on the bars and my right hand on the saddle gives me the lift and take off speed to get going and get my leg over my high mount rear water bottles.
9
Member
901 days
oldfartrunner posted 1 year ago.
On the way back from the bike leg, what do most of do with the shoes? Do you loosen them up and then leave them on the bike, running the bike barefoot through the transition area like you did in transition 1? Or do you dismount with shoes on?
I appreciate your answers. I am on my way out this morning to Tri - Cycle Shoe shop.
10
Member
870 days
Hans posted 1 year ago.
Well, going on a bike with your shoes allready mounted is quite personal, if you just can't handle the bike well enough to jump on it and hold your balance so you won't take a closer look at the asphalt, you may put them on in T1, but when entering T2, there's no point of leaving the shoes on and running with them, as it's even easier to dismount from the bike without your shoes, so always remove them before T2.
22
Member
880 days
skinautique80 posted 1 year ago.
save your money and get the LG or Shimano tri shoes with the hard plastic soles. i wear LG on my road and tri bike. carbon just looks pretty and at this point you won't benefit anything from it. unless you are an elite, you should work on the engine before updating the upholstry.
unstrap your shoes and take your feet out close to the transition and pedal on top of your shoes. leave them on the bike when you dismount and run barefoot. OR put socks on after the swim to save you from doing that. wet feet are hard to put socks on.
39
Member
749 days
jfuentes05 posted 1 year ago.
I find that I cannot get my shimano tri shoe on tight enough, there is some play, and it become apparent when I sprint or climb. Do you think my shoe is too big, or would i need to go with a shoe that has more than one strap, like the S-works, in order to get a tight enough fit?
1127
Member
987 days
UFTriGator posted 1 year ago.
^^^Tri shoes as a rule will not be able to get as tight as road shoes, but I'd check with your LBS to make sure. You might be able to fix the problem with some insoles instead of having to buy new shoes.
skinautique80;67076 wrote:
save your money and get the LG or Shimano tri shoes with the hard plastic soles. i wear LG on my road and tri bike. carbon just looks pretty and at this point you won't benefit anything from it. unless you are an elite, you should work on the engine before updating the upholstry.
Carbon shoes aren't much more expensive than plastic and they do have a pretty significant difference in the feel of the bike. If you're buying really nice composite shoes (I've heard especially Lake shoes), then the difference from those to carbon won't be a big deal, but going from Shimano plastic to a good carbon shoe is fairly appreciable.
______________________________________________
-Matt
Not fast enough.
2455
Member
1333 days
Triguy98 posted 1 year ago.
Your shoes is liekly too big/ not right for your foot. Mine fit snug with no problems. They fit better than an older pair of three strap shoes of another brand I used to have.
As far as costs, carbon might be a little more expensive, but most companies really only make carbon shoes. The ones that make plastic shoes charged prices close to the carbon models of other makes and CRAZY prices for their carbon shoes.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
451
Member
743 days
azstinger11 posted 1 year ago.
I have these and have no complaints with them.
as far as transitions go I put my shoes on in T1 but leave them on the bike in T2.
-----------------------------------------------
Base 1 (Week 2, 16.5hrs)
Check out my blog!
247
Member
1472 days
o2Ripper posted 1 year ago.
Specialized all the way....My shimano's hurt my arches after long rides.
-Branden
"Its an addiction"
Getting more serious about my Triiing. I have the bike now I am looking at changing from my mountain bike shoes and SPD cleat to a cycle or tri shoe. I am a little concerned about slipping and falling during my Transitions in a cycle or tri shoe. Any suggestions?