Solid Mtn bike for sub $500?
badumbump bump
OK, the link you've got there doesn't work but I'm betting you're looking at the Hard Rock Disc?
Two things there that bother me, the mechanical discs and the RST fork. Haven;t had many good experiences with low end discs or RST forks, both as a rider and a mechanic.
Now that's not to put down Specialized, my first MTB was a Rockhopper and my current Tri Bike is an S-Works, so I won;t hesitate to tell you they make a great bike.
But I'd probably look more toward the Rockhopper at $520. V-Brakes are going to work as well as most discs at this level and can be easier to maintain. The Rock Shox is probably a good entry level fork as well. And still the Aluminum frame.
Does the LBS have any other brands?
Thanks Jamie - Hmm, too bad the link doesn't work but yes, Hard Rock disc.
If you don't mind - educate me. What negative experiences have you had with low end discs? Do you mean discs in general, or these specifically? Same with the RST forks - what is it about them that you don't like? What's a better fork (and disc?) and why? And what could I expect out of these components - will they break down quickly? Not work well? Create a negative riding experience?
V-brakes are obviously what I'm more familiar with from my tri bike, but is there concern for performance in wet or sloppy conditions? What can you tell me about the Rock Shox vs. the RST? I'll definitely look into the Rock Hopper. The LBS is a Specialized dealer, but they also have some Cannondale. I'm not necessarily married to a brand (though my tri bike is Specialized), so if you recommend something else entirely, I'm interested.
Lots of questions here, I know, and please don't feel I'm barraging you. Any time you have to help a guy learn a little bit, I really appreciate!
Hey xt --
I ride a Specialized Mtb (Epic) and love it! I know that's a higher end one than you are interested in, but a few things of note on it:
I got vbrakes. Yes, disc can be better in really sloppy conditions (since the amt of mudd on your wheel won't clog them), but they are also heavier. For me and the conditions I'll be in, v was a better choice for now. However, the bike I got is "disc compatible" so it would be about $100 to change it to disc once I want to do that. That could be an option you might want to check out.
Another thing I was told was that for adventure racing (which might not apply to you know but I know you are an endurance geek at heart) you don't really want the hydrolic (liquid) disc brakes. If they get snagged or the tube ripped (which can happen as you carry it through a cactus field -- an experience I've had in an AR) you are just out of luck, whereas the others it's easier to figure out a mcgyver fix for.
Discs - Personally I ride discs (hydraulics) and love them. The problem I have is with lower end cable discs, they tend to be heavier and not have the power and feel that are a big reason to use discs in the first place. V-brakes have been commonplace a little longer and the technology and quality has had more time to trickle down through the product lines. The V's you'll get on a bike like the Rockhopper will likely have similar power to the lower discs, be simpler to maintain (V-brakes are by far the easiest to deal with mechanically), and may allow some better parts in other places.
There is definitely a difference in performance in wet conditions, discs IMO win hands down. But V's are pretty good for a start. Start with V's and you can always upgrade to a nice set of LX, or higher, discs in the future.
Shocks - Rock Shox started as THE company that made shocks for bicycles. Period. RST started out on cars and motorcycles, moved to bikes, working only on budget line shocks, and has now branched out to make barbecue grills. Need any other reasons for the preference?
As far as other brands most mass companies will have something similar. But if you're comfortable with your LBS, get something from them.
And you can't have too many questions, just beware you may get more opinions than you bargained for.
Nice to hear from you Kyillee! And this is great stuff - you're right, I do want something I can "grow into" a bit - if I get serious about xterra or AR, I can always upgrade to a new setup, but I at least want confidence in being able to take this rig out to do what I want to do. Very good points.
Jamie, your explanation on shocks was perfect. I think like you do - give me the real deal. Very good to know.
Question: is generally any mtn bike "upgradable" to disc brakes?
I think I will go with V-brakes then, which, in saving a bit of money over disc, maybe affords me some luxuries elsewhere. And thanks for the insight Jamie - I think the more opinions I can get in this matter, the better for my getting a clue. Thanks!
More dumb questions - how can I best figure the size bike I'll need? I'm about 6 feet tall and ride a 56 centimeter tri bike.
I'd say for size go down to the LBS and ride a few to figure out what is comfortable and all that.
I'm really not sure if most bikes are disc compatible (although I don't believe so), and I'm really not sure right now what was needed. I think the fork needs to be set up for them, and maybe the hubs as well? I really am not sure though. I bet if you ask the LBS people they could tell you if the one you are looking at is or not.
Most mass frames are going to be disc compatible, most forks are as well. Some forks are even disc only. There will be tabs on one of the fork legs and on the rear of the frame on the non-drive side if they are disc compatible. Hubs will have 6 holes on the side for the rotor if they are disc compatible.
But as Kyillee said, the LBS should be able to tell you.
And trying is the only way to size. Just remember you want a good bit more standover clearance on a mountain frame than you're used to on the road bike. I'd guess you're going to need a 19 or 21.
Here is some "Knobby knowledge" (better start learning the lingo).
I've been mountain biking as long as anything else I have done (6 years). If you are looking for something that you can eventually take to some technical trails, I am going to suggest the Trek 4500. SRP $519.99. You get a light aluminum frame, entry level Rock Shox fork (good brand), Deore rear derailleur (about the 105 level of the on road world). This bike replaced my Trek 4900. I have had mine for 3 years and have absolutely beat the snot out of it on rocky and rooty trails (as well as some pretty nasty spills) and it has never let me down. I swear by the Trek brand.
Basics to look for: Aluminum frame, minimum Alivio groupo, Rock Shox fork.
That's just my $0.02 for what it's worth.
Check out this link for more info on the bike. You are going to love mountain biking.
http://www2.trekbikes.com/bikes/bike.php?bikeid=1022600&f=18
Thanks for the 105 analogy Ultrarunner, that puts things right in perspective for me. Can you tell me more about your minimum "Alivio group"?
Looks like the Trek compares closely with the Specialized Rockhopper. Do you agree?
I'd agree with the comparison of the Trek and the Rockhopper, both are good bikes.
And I'd put Alivio at the Sora/Tiagra level, basic but serviceable.
And
Deore/Deore LX = 105 level
Deore XT = Ultegra
XTR = Dura Ace
Also check out Gary Fisher's Marlin. While Fisher is owned by Trek, the geometry is completely different than Trek's brands.
Ride all three of these bikes, and I bet one jumps out at you more as far as feel and fit.
I also dont like low end cable discs. Really, the only good cable disc are Avids BB7s. Go V brake, they wont let you down. The only reason I am on discs now is because my new frame didnt have V brake bosses. Alivio and 8 speed components are fine. I have friends riding 4+ year old 8 speed gear that worked better than my last bike 9 speed XT.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
a lot of new bikes are coming in s, m, l, xl which makes fit a bit interesting. you may end up with a frame that is bigger or smaller than you thought you might. when you pick a bike, try riding a couple sizes if you can.
JamieM hit the nail on the head with the comparison of off-road to on-road components.
Like everyone else has said here, sizing can be a bit different. Keep in mind, if you are on technical or even semi-technical terrain you will be spending more time out of the saddle than in. So whatever you ride be sure you can stand up and move around on it. To large a frame can be tough to maneuver on winding trails.
Have you considered buying used?
At a bike swap in January I just sold a Gary Fisher Supercaliber 8-spd Deore XT mountain bike with Manitou shock for $200. Then bought a Kestrel Carbon CSX mountain bike with 9-spd Deore XTR for $500. I also saw a set of dimpled, nearly new ZIPP 606's for $1100. Unfortunately I didn't have the cash. Stop by next year when you're ready to upgrade. You're only 3+ hours away.
Good points about size - and I read that a smaller frame size will provide a more "athletic" stance, where a larger will sit me more upright - as you were indicating, Ultrarunner. I stopped by the LBS for a look last night, and they have the rockhopper in stock. I think I'll start with trying a 19, and if that feels off I'll go to a 21. At a 6 foot frame, otherwise average build, does that sound about like the approach you guys would take? I understand that at this point it's more up to personal preference.
Thanks for the tip homebrewermike - I checked ebay a bit, but didn't find anything too compelling. I would absolutely be interested in the swap meet though, and in the next 6 months Madison will become more substantial part of my existence, so it's something I'll for sure keep in mind.
I am 6'2" and ride a 19 (L) and so do a couple other guys in the 6'2" range that I ride with. My first mt. bike was a 20 and it was too big for me and really affected my riding on more technical terrain, although it felt fine riding around on the street when I test rode it. When I bought my new bike I was able to demo a few bikes and sizes, and really found the 19s much better. I really think you'd find a 21 too big, although bikes do differ. I'd say check out the 17-19. If you can test ride it on some off road terrrain because that is where you'll be spending most of your time.
Googles, Out.
The Battle does not always go to the stronger or faster man,
Because sooner or later the man that wins
Is the man that thinks he can.
My wife has a 6 year old Specialized Hardrock Comp and it has been a great bike for her. If you decvide not to go with the Specilaized, you may want to check out some of the lesseer known bikes brands. Often times they will sell at a lower price than similar bikes and are just as good. I got a great deal on my Jamis and got a better bike for less price.
Googles, Out.
The Battle does not always go to the stronger or faster man,
Because sooner or later the man that wins
Is the man that thinks he can.
Start at 19, try one lower and one higher. I am 6'2, 32 inch inseam and ride a 19.5" Fisher. I have a 21" hard tail frame that is too large for aggressive riding. A larger frame will lay you out more, and not have as much standover clearance. If you like your..equipment... intact, go for standover clearance.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCM?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO
This site is REAL handy and very accurate. It told me that the Fisher Cake DLX 19.5" fell right into the middle of the recommended size ranges for me. And what do you know, the bike feels like a dream.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
Good points about size - and I read that a smaller frame size will provide a more "athletic" stance, where a larger will sit me more upright - as you were indicating, Ultrarunner. I stopped by the LBS for a look last night, and they have the rockhopper in stock. I think I'll start with trying a 19, and if that feels off I'll go to a 21. At a 6 foot frame, otherwise average build, does that sound about like the approach you guys would take? I understand that at this point it's more up to personal preference.Thanks for the tip homebrewermike - I checked ebay a bit, but didn't find anything too compelling. I would absolutely be interested in the swap meet though, and in the next 6 months Madison will become more substantial part of my existence, so it's something I'll for sure keep in mind.
You also might want to check this out:
http://www.bikeorama.com/southernwisconsinBikeOrama.html
I've never been to it but it sounds like you can test ride many bikes. That weekend is also the time when all the local bike stores have their spring sales. (I'd recommend Machinery Row and Budget Bicycles) You can usually get last years models for really cheap. And if the weather is nice you can do a loop on the IM course.
Don't know if you found one yet but this looks interesting. I don't know anything about Scott bikes. Comes with padals too.
sierratradingpost.com Item # 73922




I'm an experience triathlete who's looking to gently enter the world of mountain biking. I'm looking for a solid bike to do some winter weather training, tool around urban environments, but also be able to hit the trails when I'd like to and enjoy myself.
I'm a total newbie to mtn biking - like, I just learned the difference between hard tail and soft tail. I don't think I need full suspension at all, but front suspension would be nice. Disc brakes are a must, I think, so I can ride with confidence when it's wet.
I'd like to stay within a $500 budget, so I can get a few other accessories and get started. I don't want to buy crap, but I'm realistic that $500 will get me entry-level. I know hardly anything about mtn bike components, what a person should and should not look for in a mtn bike, what kind of frame materials are preferred, etc. I'm looking for any and all advice, insights and education!
My LBS has this Specialized in stock, which seemed as good a place as any to start:
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=22091
Anybody have any ideas they can share? I appreciate it!