clinchers, tubulars, or clincher-tubulars
39
Member
737 days
jfuentes05 posted 1 year ago.
You will save the weight by going tubular, and it really is not that hard to change a tubular, but you do have to carry extra tires. I would say if you are going to have wheels for only racing, go with tubular. If you are only going to have one set of wheels, then maybe try the tubular-clinchers.
169
Member
738 days
solidad posted 1 year ago.
Got an additional question, I have a set of racing wheels that I just got that are tubular -- do they flat more or less than clinchers?
1127
Member
975 days
UFTriGator posted 1 year ago.
solidad;62078 wrote:
Got an additional question, I have a set of racing wheels that I just got that are tubular -- do they flat more or less than clinchers?
They won't get snakebite flats like clinchers can get if you hit a pothole hard. These are the ones where you can see two small holes next to each other. They're also called pinch flats since the tube gets pinched between the rim and tire. As far as flats from glass, tire wire, etc, it will depend on the construction of the tire. Armadillos and the like are less likely to flat from debris since they're thicker and protect the tube better. Since tubulars are generally more about performance, they'll generally save weight by having thinner material, making them more likely to flat from debris.
Also, since tubulars are completely enclosed, they can be inflated to higher pressures, meaning less rolling resistance.
About tubular-clinchers, they're really kind of a marketing ploy. They don't save much weight and they're overpriced. What I do is use 23mm clinchers on my training wheels and 19mm tubs on my aero wheels. As far as changing tubulars goes, all you do is roll off the flat and roll on the new one. The residue glue will hold the tires on well enough to finish the ride until you can get it reglued. You should avoid really tight turns since it's possible to roll the tire off again if you're not careful.
______________________________________________
-Matt
Not fast enough.
2936
Member
1358 days
Anton posted 1 year ago.
I've used tubulars (also called sew- ups) since the early 80's.
They are wicked fast and wicked expensive when you do puncture as you have to replace the whole shebang. Cheap tubulars flatten about as often as cheap clincher tubes...I feel the better quality the longer they last. Some guys have race tubulars and cheap training tubulars.
I race on Conti Comps but train on Tufo Jet with sealant in the tire which works...sometimes.
Leran to glue them on yourself...saves you money AND you'll start to feel like a real bikie! Your local,friendly, LBS will teach you how...but take a six-pack or a pizza.
"What would life be if we had no courage to attempt anything?" - Vincent Van Gogh
My Blog: http://agingsuperhero.blogspot.com
208
Member
1184 days
sldotter posted 1 year ago.
I have the tufo clincher-tubulars on my road bike now. I love these things they were a little tough getting on the first time but I have had them for a while now and not one flat. Also the psi can get high like a tubular. I have tubulars on my race wheels but only because I bought them off a guy used and really had no choice. I will buy the clincher tubulars again and again.
Trevor Douglas YOU ARE AN IRONMAN!
1127
Member
975 days
UFTriGator posted 1 year ago.
Anton;62091 wrote:
They are wicked fast and wicked expensive when you do puncture as you have to replace the whole shebang.
They're definitely faster, but you can actually patch a flat tubular. It's a bit labor intensive, so it all depends on how bad you want to save 80 bucks. I've never done it, so I can't comment on how easy it is (I imagine not at all easy), but here's what you do:
Find where the tire went flat and cut a few of the stitches at that spot.
Pull out the tube a bit at that spot, clean it, and patch it.
Re-sew the tire (I've heard that a curved surgical needle helps).
I'm not much of a seamstress, so I'd probably just get the new tire instead of wasting two hours ruining one trying to fix it, but I doubt there are many people worse off at sewing than I am.
______________________________________________
-Matt
Not fast enough.
834
Member
1362 days
JamieM posted 1 year ago.
You can get patch kits for tubulars. Consists of a tube, needle and thread and new base tape. They are labor intensive, but I think they are worth it.
I have a set of clincher race wheels and a used set of tubulars and I usually prefer the feel of the tubulars. But I haven;t flatted with them yet, so not sure what I'd do in that case.
But the above advice is good, if you have one set of wheels, get clinchers. You can always upgrade to a set of tubulars later.
791
Member
1562 days
toni posted 1 year ago.
Do clinchers cause the wheel to wobble a bit or spin straight?
-Toni
The only thing we have to fear is fear itself. - FDR
558
Member
1385 days
vanjames posted 1 year ago.
It can cause a wobble if you haven't got the tube fully inside the tire so that the bead is clear. when you insert your tube make sure it is inflated just slightly, fit it in the tire, then starting at the valve pinch both sides and ensure you do not see the tube, if you do you will likely get a wobble and/or flat the tire, move around the entire tire to ensure no tube is showing between the bead and the rim. It can alos be a sign of a poor tube if one area bulges relative to the rest. Can't comment on tubulars.
1127
Member
975 days
UFTriGator posted 1 year ago.
Check to see if the wheel is wobbling or the tire is wobbling. If you spin the wheel and can see the braking surface moving back and forth, it's the wheel not the tire. Go get it trued. If the braking surface is spinning true and the tire is wobbling, the problem is with the tire.
There are a couple things that could cause this: if you have a defective tire or the bead is not completely set into the rim the whole way around. Deflate it, make sure that the tube isn't caught anywhere (probably not, since you'd probably have a flat by now), squeeze the tire the whole way around to make sure it's seated, then reinflate it. If it still wobbles, get a new tire.
______________________________________________
-Matt
Not fast enough.
16
Member
945 days
PIMA posted 1 year ago.
I have the Tufo S33, 700X21 Tubular Clincher. On road, they work fantastic, but installing it is a little hard, aways need the help from my wife, so I only use them for races.
Other problem, I inflate them to 160 psi and if the pavement is not in good condition the bike tend to bounce, wich is a little risky, specially at high speeds, but when it's flat, there's pretty good speed on them, so I'd use them again and again.
2437
Member
1321 days
Triguy98 posted 1 year ago.
Several recent studies are showing that:
A) tubies arent really significantly faster than good clinchers
B) skinny ass 19mm tires are not faster on most wheels and framesets than a 23mm
C) higher pressures are actually slower than running at 110- 120. The additional pressure bounces the tire around more when not on a super smooth surface, reducing the time the tires is in contat with the ground- making it slower. No doubt that on a track with the right wheels 19mm at 160 psi is faster. Show me a tri course that is even remotely as smooth as a track.
IMO, clinchers are the way to go. You save money, can be just as fast with the right tire/tube/ wheel combination, and are better off when it comes to flatting.
You get a flat with a tubie- you normally carry one spare. Yes, you can still go fast on the straights with a replaced tubie, but you can haul butt on the corners and not worry about the tire rolling off with clinchers. You also have more options to fix a clincher flat. A tube and patch kit is usually good enough to fix a couple flats in one ride.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
i am in my second season of triathlon and have decided to build a TT/Tri bike to save money and force me to learn componetry and everything that goes into building a bike. i have gotten to tires. i run the normal 700cx23mm tire for my road bike, but everybody i talked to had a 19mm tubular on their TT bike. i saw on the tufo tire site that they make a clincher-tubular tire that has all the advantages of a tubular, i.e. light weight, etc., but can be installed on a clincher rim. is there anyone out there that has any experience with these? it seems it gives the ease of clinchers in a tire change situation with the advantages of a tubular as well. although i have never used or changed a tubular tire. wnybody know about them?