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Bike component upgrades?

xt4's picture
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started by xt4 on February 8, 2006

Hi all -

I have an '05 Specialized Transition Elite - basically the "base" model from Specialized's first foray into tri-specific bikes. Had a nice season with it last year, and no real complaints. I am looking to do some upgrades, though - one thing I thought when I bought the "base" model was well, I can upgrade components anytime.

So my questions is, apart from wheels, what suggestions do any of you have for what to upgrade? I'm looking for opinions on how an upgrade can improve performance at all, or in providing better quality, provide a better ride and/or life. I'm not the kind of triathlete where the seconds shaved from the newest Carbon Fiber bike decal will really matter, but at the same time, I love free speed as much as the next guy. Any thoughts? Any suggestions on what to buy?

Here's what I have: Shimano Ultegra 18-speed drive train with Dura-Ace bar end shifters. Shimano Ultegra cassettes. FSA Gossamer 2-piece crank set. Shimano Ultegra brakes with run of the mill brake pads.

Thanks for any input!

CAcyclingFAN's picture
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CAcyclingFAN posted 2 years ago.

I don't think I have swapped anything out on my bike for speed other than wheels and tires. After that it is just fit, weight, aerodynamics, and stiffness that will make your bike faster (plus training, of course). However, I have swapped things out because they look cooler and that usually translates to some weight savings. I have a problem buying bike stuff and what I have found is that other than wheels and tires you are almost better off buying a new bike if you want to upgrade. However, that said, I might do things in this order -

1. Surf eBay for things that might make my bike look cooler as well as be lighter and stiffer.
2. Get a bike fit
3. Buy carbon shoes and maybe new pedals
4. Get stiffer/lighter cranks and a lighter bottom bracket
5. Buy a P3C

When it's time to die, let us not discover that we have never lived. - Thoreau

vmarwin's picture
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vmarwin posted 2 years ago.

Best Strategy for making your bike fast:

1. Make the engine fast, ie train your ass off.
2. If you're going to sink cash into something, upgrade your wheels to something more aero.
3. Get your bike fitted property, if you havent already...

Other than that, just remember when push comes to shove, its better to go aero rather than lighter, if the differences arent that much. For example, if something will make you more aero, invest in it, its probably worth the money...however just buying stuff to make your bike a few grams lighter probably isnt the best use of your money. Just think of saving 100 grams, that can cost a lot of money. but its only 2 gel packets worth of weight...

If you wish to be out front, then act as if you were behind.

Triguy98's picture
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Triguy98 posted 2 years ago.

If that pic in your profile is current, ou could def. use a professional fitting to get you more aero. None of your components are holding you back, and wheels are really the only thing that are gonna make you faster equipment-wise.

Look at a different aero bar like the Hed S bends or Profile T2's. Pair those with a proper fitting, youll pick up some time for sure. If it has to be one or the other, go with the fitting. Find a FIST certified dealer near you if possible.

Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.

glbrum's picture
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glbrum posted 2 years ago.

Aero wheels are the best way to get more speed, but they are not free. There are several options for this, buy an aero cover, which can be trimmed to fit just about any rear wheel from wheelbuilder.com, for the rear wheel and then for the front, get a deep dish aero wheel from ebay or new if you want to go that route. Either way, you could probably get that new set up for <$500. A professional bike fit would be another way to go too. A good setup can actually increase power, thus speed, without causing any rise in HR or causing more fatigue.

xt4's picture
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xt4 posted 2 years ago.

Great input all. I'm schedule for a FIST fit in a couple of weeks as it is, and am considering whether or not a wheel upgrade (I race on Rolf Vigor's right now) is a prudent thing to do. I guess my main question was, aside from wheels and ignoring the engine, what components make the most sense to upgrade? And while any lost weight theoretically = more speed, like I said, those few seconds won't matter much to a guy like me. So I'm not just looking to go faster, but to have higher quality parts on my bike where it might be useful. I can probably assume that higher quality = lighter, so any speed gained is gravy. So the comment about the aero bars was a good one, and when I get fit, I'll explore that. Other than that, am I to assume that there's no appreciable difference between crank sets (or a guy like me), or drivetrain components, etc.? Thanks for all your advice!

merlinextraligh's picture
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merlinextraligh posted 2 years ago.

There's nothing wrong with your bike and no componet change that is going to make a measurable difference. Put your money in wheels.
If you really want t o change anything it would be to put on a D/A crankset with external BB or an FSA carbon crank with mega exo bb. When you have ultegra level componets you're just not going to see any significant improvement from upgrading.

Blitz's picture
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Blitz posted 2 years ago.

Carbon seats are selling like hot cakes here in Switzeland.

Who needs a man when you have a Kuota Kalibur to wrap your legs around.

glbrum's picture
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glbrum posted 2 years ago.

Although a full Dura Ace spec'd bike will be lighter, it would be a lot less expensive to justlose a few pounds on your body thna to spend the money on a gruppo upgrade.
Seriously look into an aero cover for the rear wheel. They are ~$70 and offer just about the same performance gains as a disk at a fraction of the cost.

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bluebirdbiker posted 2 years ago.

glbrum wrote:
Although a full Dura Ace spec'd bike will be lighter, it would be a lot less expensive to justlose a few pounds on your body thna to spend the money on a gruppo upgrade.
Seriously look into an aero cover for the rear wheel. They are ~$70 and offer just about the same performance gains as a disk at a fraction of the cost.

Check out
wheelbuilder.com
for those discs

BBB
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Don't think, just do.
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deepbluex's picture
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deepbluex posted 2 years ago.

Do you feel there's an appreciative performance difference between a 700Cx23 and a x22 tire?

Triguy98's picture
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Triguy98 posted 2 years ago.

Not really, but the trend now is not to really go lower than 23.

Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.

CAcyclingFAN's picture
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CAcyclingFAN posted 2 years ago.

glbrum wrote:
Although a full Dura Ace spec'd bike will be lighter, it would be a lot less expensive to justlose a few pounds on your body thna to spend the money on a gruppo upgrade.
Seriously look into an aero cover for the rear wheel. They are ~$70 and offer just about the same performance gains as a disk at a fraction of the cost.

Heck, just take a dump before your race. That is about the weight difference between Ultegra and Dura Ace.

When it's time to die, let us not discover that we have never lived. - Thoreau

Triguy98's picture
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Triguy98 posted 2 years ago.

CAcyclingFAN wrote:
Heck, just take a dump before your race. That is about the weight difference between Ultegra and Dura Ace.

You take conservative dumps. The DA/ Ultrega difference is more akin to a major leak than a dump.

The argument against upgrading to DA is diminishing returns on the investment. There practically isnt any return for the $$ you have to shell out. Ultrega is last years DA, and this rings especially true with the newer outboard bearing setups that havent been around long, so the trickle down effect is pretyt pronounced.

An Ultrega 10 setup wouldnt hold back even a pro triathlete.

Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.

deepbluex's picture
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deepbluex posted 2 years ago.

For me, flipping the bike seat post 180 degrees which allowed a saddle position 1 inch further forward gave me a huge improvement in pedaling power while in the aero position. While it felt "ok" before, I was shocked to feel how easy it felt to rest more body weight comfortably on the saddle.

Also, updating my helmet to the Atmos felt really great - not on an aero way but in a "improved ventilation" way. My head just felt cooler with so much more air passing through the helmet.

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SandyDave posted 2 years ago.

I just bought a new, still-in-the box Transition Elite on Ebay for $900, and had it professionally fit and assembled at my local bike shop. Due to winter weather here in Salt Lake, I haven't ridden it yet but am excited to--it seems like a really sweet ride. How have you liked yours? I searched all over the Internet for a review before I bought it and couldn't find one, but I figured Specialized makes solid bikes and the Peter Reid input on the design couldn't hurt.

Plus it was a great deal--I couldn't find anything locally for under $1200 that had Ultegra components and an aero frame.

I'd be interested in your thoughts--I'll probably do mainly sprint tris with a couple of Olympic distance this summer.

Also, what kind of pedals do you use? The bike came with stock platform pedals, but the bike shop recommended Speedplay and it looks like I will probably put those on.

TBRAVO's picture
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TBRAVO posted 2 years ago.

Speedplays are easier to get in and out of. But you might want to check out Shimano SPD-SL (Dura-ace or Ultegra).
Larger platform = better power transfer.
- T

rjkowski's picture
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rjkowski posted 2 years ago.

Here's my $0.02: It sounds like you've got yourself a pretty nice set of wheels already (Rolf Vigors), and your comonents are nothing to laugh at either. You've also got a fitting lined up, so I won't talk about that. If you are really looking to squeeze out some performance, look for a stiffer drivetrain. I think the Gossamer crankset you've got has the external bearings already, so upgrading to a better crankset probably won't give you much bang for your buck.

How about upgrading to a top notch chain? Think of all of the bearing surfaces on a chain, and a high quality chain can really reduce friction. Another source of friction is in the pedal bearings. Do you have top end pedals? And what about your bottom bracket? Maybe you could upgrade to a top of the line bottom bracket to get better bearings there too.

Other than that, I would turn to things that can make your bike more comfortable. It looks like your bike has a carbon fork and seatpost, so those should already help cut down on vibration. Are you happy with your seat? If not change it to one that is more comfortable. Are you happy with the base bar and aero bars? If not, get something that will be more comfortable or offer more hand positions/angles. If you are happy with them, what about rewrapping your aero bars and base bars with some better cork or gel padding that will help cut down on vibration?

Finally, if none of these sounds like great ideas, here's a crazy idea: Why not get a custom paint job for your bike? It won't make your bike faster, but knowing that your bike isn't like any other bikes out there could give you enough of a mental edge to make YOU faster.

vmarwin's picture
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vmarwin posted 2 years ago.

Three words: "Twin HED 3's."

If you wish to be out front, then act as if you were behind.

RV's picture
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RV posted 2 years ago.

vmarwin wrote:
Three words: "Twin HED 3's."

Three more words: "I love mine!!!!"

RV

It takes a long time to get good. - Scott Molina
Slow is smooth; smooth is fast. - Rich Strauss

vmarwin's picture
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vmarwin posted 2 years ago.

RV wrote:
Three more words: "I love mine!!!!"

Dude, I just put mine on....they're awesome.

If you wish to be out front, then act as if you were behind.

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vanjames posted 2 years ago.

Five words: Power Tap or Power Cranks.