Compact Crankset on a tri-bike
Compact should do just fine. Be careful to make sure that your bottom bracket is still the appropriate length (should be, but stranger things have happened). Your original FD should also work just find, though obviously it will have to be moved a bit and readjusted.
Chris
Check out this write up. It discusses many of your questions. Personally, I like the idea, depending on where you're riding.
http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/product2005/tribikes/perfectspec.html#drivetrain
[FONT=Impact]-Jason
"Fatigue will make cowards of us all!"
Check out this write up. It discusses many of your questions. Personally, I like the idea, depending on where you're riding.http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/product2005/tribikes/perfectspec.html#drivetrain
Hey, that's a great article - well thought out, no BS and thoroghly entertaining too.
Who is the author?
I especially like it because I have a Cramerotti frame of "round steel," a Campy groupo with friction shifters and a 12-28 rear, a 50/42 chainring pair up front driving a pair of Campy Super Record hubs :)
Now I don't feel retro, I feel cool!
PoC
"Pain doesn't last, chicks dig scars, glory is forever!"
- Shane Falco.

Thanks!
The slowtwich article is very good. I think it's probably by that Dan Empfield guy, who used to work / design at Quintana Roo and is a walking encyclopedia about all technical things triathlon. He has a strong
opinion about the most minute of technical details, the importance of which comes as "news" to lots of age groupers. I never fail to learn something cool after reading one of his articles.
Have put compacts on all of my bikes (Tri & Road). Best thing I have done besides Tri SPoke wheels.
Run a 12-25 rear and can spin at 95+ in any gear. In the last year My Bike Split has picked up roughly 1.5 mph since I put the compacts on.
At 57 like the idea of spinning and saving the legs for the run. Be aware depening on your adaptability may take some time to get used to the higher cadens.
Hope this helps.
Who is the author?
Usually those reviews and opinions are written by Dan Empfield the editor of slowtwitch. He is also the founder of QR I believe.
[FONT=Impact]-Jason
"Fatigue will make cowards of us all!"
Great, thanks!
I browsed around there and I'm sure you're right.
I also got a big kick out of the new girl author jr, I think.
PoC
"Pain doesn't last, chicks dig scars, glory is forever!"
- Shane Falco.

PoC,
Always good info. on slowtwitich. Minimal B.S. and any product bias is usually mentioned up front. Loads of tech. stuff.
[FONT=Impact]-Jason
"Fatigue will make cowards of us all!"


Please tell me what you folks think ?
Since most tri -specific geometry bikes are set up with larger (55t / 42t) or (54t / 42t) time trial
cranks from the manufacturer, they tend to be great for guys with legs like Jan Ulrich, or Lance riding 30+ mph on the flats, HOWEVER, most of us regular people can't push a big ring like that at 90 to 100 rpms UNLESS we are using the middle to larger cogs in the rear. Therefore, the smaller cogs in the rear go un-used unless I'm in my small front chainring, or spinning down a hill.
This is the case on most of my training rides, where the GOAL is to spin at between 90 and 105 rpms, and keep my heart rate between 140 to 160 bpm for x amount of time, say 3 or 4 hours, regardless of the terrain slope. I am contemplating putting a compact crankset (50t /34t) on my tri-bike to be able to stay "in the big ring" and work my way through the entire rear cogset, and
be able to "spin" up climbs, or even do a Century, since I do not have a "standard road bike".
Have any of you guys or ladies put one of these "Tyler Hamilton specials" (compact crankset) on your road or tri bike ? If so, how has it improved your climbing and general riding efficiency?
Also, did you pair it with an 11-21, 11-23, or 12-26 rear cogset?
Did your standard Shimano 105/ Ultegra/ DuraAce front derailleur work OK with this setup, since it involves a 16 tooth differential?