road to tri bike conversion…

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This topic contains 9 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by Avatar of Dunger Dunger 6 years, 10 months ago.

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  • #1387
    Avatar of CGroth
    CGroth
    Participant

    so i am pondering converting my road bike to a pseudo tri bike via fast forward post/base/aerobar. does anybody have experience with this? is it worth the cost/time. i am currently running a giant ocr1 with quite a few upgrades using a fsa mini bar. should i just put the money towards a tri bike in a couple of years, or drop the money now to upgrade my current ride? me = poor graduate student right now.

    #85960
    Avatar of RV
    RV
    Participant

    I went with a forward seatpost and areobars on my road bike. It is not too expensive to do – however I did do a FIST bike fit to dial it in – that was really beneficial.
    It was definitely worth it for me to do. At some point I will also get a tri bike.

    #85963
    Avatar of jacmun
    jacmun
    Participant

    I also have a Giant OCR 1 which for a time I used in tri’s. I now have a TT frame after struggling with my position on the road bike. The compact frame of the OCR 1 makes it difficult to really set yourself up in an attack position. I changed the head and seat post and tried with good technical support to improve things but never really got what I have now. My advice get a good TT frame. I bought a new Scott, but a good friend of mine has spent alot of time on the net and has built a great bike around a cervelo P2 frame for much less than I spent.

    #85969
    Avatar of saydee1800
    saydee1800
    Participant

    I have a trek 1500 that I convert to a tri bike I put a Profile Design carbon fast forward seat post I also put a Profile design T-wing base bar with Qs2 Brake levers and Carbon Strykes with bar end shifters. I reallly like the converted bike because you can allways switch back. My bike shop does this for me for $30 buck if I take of the bars and bring them in the road bar set up. I aslo think that when you buy a new bike buy one that has the movable seat post. I now have a Kestrel
    Talon That I have set up as a Tri Bike. Converting is costly but I found that it was really worth the cash

    #87527
    Avatar of GGehrke
    GGehrke
    Participant

    I am currently prepping for my first competitive season, so take my comments with a grain of salt, but I’ve been riding for several years and have done a LOT of research into bike fit and aerodynamics.

    Remember that you’re more concerned with rider aerodynamics than equipment aerodynamics, so any bike that you can ride comfortably in a TT/Tri type position will work very well, despite its labeling. Aero tube profiles and steering geometries designed for a more forward center of gravity are benefits, but not deal-breakers. I presume you know this much already.

    My problem for a long time (2 yrs or so) was that I was using aerobars with a regular saddle and seatpost and had rather unpleasant problems with -ahem- “numbness” because I was riding on the nose all the time in order to open up my hip angle. I switched to an Aerus Halo seatpost (GREAT seatpost. Very adjustable and capable of going very forward) and a Profile TriStryke saddle and it feels a lot more natural, like the bike’s meant to be that way, than when I had the stock stuff (plus clip-ons). Seat angle is a matter of personal preference but does limit your ability to get your torso low and level. If you’re trying to get into an aero tuck and stay there, you’re right in assuming you’ll need to push your seat forward (and up – think arc around BB). Changing my seat angle definitely allows me to hold my aero position much longer.

    Also, my opinion for a bike you also train on is keep your drop bar. I tried a set of bullhorn style base bars on my fixed gear and never realized how nice the multiple hand positions of drop bars are until I didn’t have them. I’ve never used a fancy tri specific bar, but I’d only put a dedicated cockpit on a dedicated race bike.

    Try a new seatpost though and maybe play with different aerobars (I’m about to switch to an Oval A711 setup because I think it looks nicely suited to a ‘conversion’ bike). Worst case scenario you can eBay them later.

    Also on my upcoming upgrade-itis list ahead of a race bike is an aero helmet. Bang for buck I don’t think you can beat it.

    -Grant-

    #87641
    Avatar of tantric.triathlete
    tantric.triathlete
    Participant

    I have been wanting a true tri bike for a while now and it is just not in the budget so I have been slowly retro fitting my road bike with clip on aero bars and now I was considering getting rid o f the drops for a inexpensive base bar. I hadn’t thought about the seat post. Thanks for the idea.

    #87742
    Avatar of CGroth
    CGroth
    Participant

    i have my shiny profile carbon fast forward seat post and syntace C2 clips now so i can get started on my conversion. I will let you all know how it goes. it will be a while though since i am going to spend a week with my fiance and her parents in jacksonville (get out of this cold michigan weather!) beginning stages of wedding planning…exciting stuff, no?

    #87798
    Avatar of dawgruff
    dawgruff
    Participant

    started by dawgruff on December 27, 2007

    http://atlanta.craigslist.org/bik/516303317.html (allez)

    or

    http://atlanta.craigslist.org/bik/516933379.html (cannondale)

    Also, I am 5’11 – 6′ tall and weigh 190 lbs. I wear a 36″ wasit pants with a 31″ lengtth. According to this site -http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit#inseam#inseam
    I should use a 54cm or 55cm frame BUT many people have told me I need a 56, 57 or 58cm frame? The 58cm frame has a 32″ standover. My inseam is only 31″ so I would crush my you know whats – wouldn’t I?

    #87894
    Avatar of CGroth
    CGroth
    Participant

    my girlfriend at 5’6″ just bought a 54 cm fuji. it is slightly big, but the deal was so great that it could not be passed up. you can always make small adjustments with the stem/handlebar combo and saddle shifting fore/aft. if i were you i would not be looking at a 54 cm bike, but rather a 56 or 58. the only way to actually tell if a bike will fit is to ride it. since you are looking at used bikes you could always go to a shop and jump on a couple of bikes of similar size just to sample what the difference is in real life.

    #88358
    Avatar of Dunger
    Dunger
    Participant

    I ride a Giant TCR C2 with clip on tri bars and a good tri saddle. It works pretty well for me as a one all-round bike. The key is comfort in the areo position for IM or HIM.

    I recommend purchasing the book by Lennard Zinn called “Zinn and the Art of Triathlon Bike Maintenance”. This book goes into a lot of detail about bike fit, sizing, different types of set ups and how to look after them. It is a great book – I got one for Xmas a couple weeks ago…

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