Buy $2250 worth of bike that [b][i]fits[/i][/b] you the best. The reality of the world is that most manufacturers make bikes that are similarly constructed and similarly spec'd at any given price range. Some manufacturers, Felt comes to mind, might give you a bit more bang for the buck depending on the model year.

I'd try to find a hold over stock bike from 2010/2011 that [b][i]fits[/i][/b] you. Fit is by far, [b][i]job one[/b][/i] in getting a new bike. I'd ask the LBS you go to for a stack and reach fit to see what bike frame is best suited for your body so you can narrow your search from there.

If you are fast, and comfortable, on roadie, maybe you shouldn't fool with what works? Plenty of folks do IM on roadies and are fast.

Kestrel makes a fine bike, by the way. Good luck!

I to echo Pag's comments -- fit is the most important thing. Within the right size, you can *make* any bike fit you. But you would compromise configuration and handling. The most important thing is to get fit for a tri bike before you make any decisions. You should go to a qualified fitter to try different positions and see what feels right and what best aligns to your body's geometry and flexibility. Stack, reach and seat angle are the critical measurements. They determine if you'll need to buy a tall and narrow frame (higher stack/shorter reach) or a long and low frame. Once you have your stack and reach measurements, you should look for a bike that's geometry is within 100mm of each number. Then, when you get that bike fitted to you, they'll be able to make it a more precise fit without having to load it up with all kinds of spacers, funky stem angles and the like.

Good luck.

Also, despite the appearance, the Talon isn't really a tri bike, its a standard road frame (fit and geometry) with a forward seatpost and aerobars.