I'm not sure if there is a weight rating on them but I was riding on them when I was 220lbs but now at 200lbs.

I have the flaspoint 60's made by zipp. They aren't that cheap, I paid about 1100 four years ago but now I hear they are a fair amount more.

I swear by them, I estimate I have put at least 10k on them with zero issues. What's even more impressive is I've only had them trewed twice. Just watched the guy at bike shop adjust the rear one and it took him two minutes as he told me they were pretty well perfect.

Good luck....not sure which u have tried so far, sometimes u get what u pay for.

Chunky, I know your pain. You will want to go with a set of wheels with a higher spoke count first off. 32 back and 28 front. I had a set of Mavic CPX-33's with 32 back and 28 front until I hit the dog this year and trashed them. Now I am on a set of Ameran Classices with the same spoke count and no issues.

Definitely brass nipples. As for spokes, there is a benefit to be had with straight gauge vs. double butted spokes (thinner in the middle), but i cant remember which one is better for heavier guys, sorry. a google might do the trick. i only come in at 225, but i have all my mountain bike wheels custom made. Machine built wheels do not stay true for long.

On my road and tri bikes, i have some Mavic Kysrium SLs and some Bontrager "Aero Lite" wheels. I have never trued either except after i backed over the mavic front wheel with my truck.

[quote=ChunkyB]Thanks for the feedback. I'm thinking of 36 rear and 32 front. Aerodynamics be damned. [/quote]

That would do it.

But, like everything, inspect them regularly. I put my bike up on the stand weekly just to wipe it down and lube the chain, and while I am doing that I look over all of the stressed part of the bike. I just trashed a pair of Neauvations in two years, but at $45 a rim they were cheap to fix and rebuild.

[quote=NotAsFast]I had a set of Mavic CPX-33's with 32 back and 28 front . . .[/quote]

You might consider a custom build with this rim. Great all-around, durable rim that you can build-up with a higher spoke count. For spokes, Sapim CX Ray. The "CX" means they're used on 'cross bikes, and they're also recommened for MTB and downhill, but since they're slightly bladed they work well on road/tri set ups. FWIW, I'm looking at a custom build with this set-up and I'm "only" 190.

As usual, Sheldon had a lot of useful information about wheels:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

i'm 195
for my commuter, i got ultegra hubs and mavic cpx22 rims with 32 count spokes front/rear...this was pretty reasonably priced

If you don't care about either weight or aero, skip the CX Rays. They're $3 a spoke, which brings your total on a 36/36 build north of 200, just for the spokes! That'll easily put your total over $400.

My recommendation for a stupid strong set of wheels would be at least 32 hole front and rear - 36 would be better and remember, it's a tri bike and your weight will be roughly evenly distributed over both, so don't skimp on the front. 105 hubs are solid, as are Ultegra, but the 105's will come in a bit cheaper, and last near as long with proper maintenance. As for rims, the DT RR1.2 (now the RR585) would be a good bet with 32 spokes. For a 36 spoke wheel, you could go with a DT Swiss TK540, Mavic CXP33, Open Pro of even Open Sport (if you're looking to save money). Spokes should be straight gauge, not bladed. And nipples most definitely brass. For reference, a 32 hole set with 105 hubs, DT Champion spokes (straight gauge), CXP33 rims and brass nipples will run you $280 at your link, and a comparable open sport will be $225. The CXP33's will be a bit heavier, but will be stiffer, which is good for big guys when going uphill.

One other thing to consider is hub maintenance. All Shimano hubs have open bearings. This means you'll need to clean and adjust them more often than a hub with sealed bearings. If you know how to do this (it's not too hard, just open up the hub, spray in some degreaser, flush it out, repack with grease and reassemble) it's not that bad, and will save you trips to the shop for the work or bearing replacement. Sealed bearings tend to be less robust, but are virtually maintenance free. Just pull them out and pop in new ones when they're shot. It's this reason that I went with sealed bearings in the hubs of a new training/racing wheelset I'm building up.

[quote=gshuldes]As usual, Sheldon had . . . [/quote]

"had" = :(

[quote=xc800runner]As for rims, the DT RR1.2 (now the RR585) would be a good bet with 32 spokes. For a 36 spoke wheel, you could go with a DT Swiss TK540, Mavic CXP33, Open Pro of even Open Sport (if you're looking to save money).[/quote]

That's good info on the rims.

I have had amazing luck with a custom built Salsa Delgato Cross wheel, Shimano 105 hub with DT swiss spokes (32x) as a rear for my commmutter bike. Riding some rough road I broke a standard wheel and had to have my wife pick me up on my way home from work...Not cool.
Since switching to the Delgato about 2 years and about 1500 miles later..No truing necessary, and the roads have not improved.
Big piece of custom wheels is going to a shop with people that live and breath BUILDING bikes, not necessarily racing. Get a wheelbuilder you can trust to do the job right.

I am riding a set of Neuvation wheels currently. I was around 220 lbs when I put them on the bike. Have about 4k miles on them and no issues, although I am now down around 185 lbs. Also they are quite affordable, definitely not sexy though if you are shooting for looks.

What about Nimble wheels. They have a couple wheelsets designed for I think up to 280 lbs.