Need help/suggestions from you guys on Aero Fit (hit a hole and aero bars moved)
I had a similar issue about a month ago and I did the adjusting myself. Seat and stem hadn't moved so I adjusted to comfort and keeping the aero benefits in mind. In the en I'm more comfortable and learned a bit about fitting in the process.
i dont know what today will bring to me, but thats just fine.
Depending on what condition they moved them (did you tell them or did they just do it and told you afterward) I would complain. I would think a good LBS wouldn't touch someone's set up unless they were in it. But that could be just me. Like Semper Tri did...this could be a learning opportunity.
"The pain of discipline is far less than the pain of regret" - Sarah Bombell
Did your fitter last year take measurements? If so, call him and get them, then readjust everything yourself.
If there are no measurements, I still wouldn't spend $100 to align aerobars. Put the bike on a trainer, level the saddle by raising the front wheel (to simulate the open road) and start adjusting until things feel like they used to.
Do you have the stock Vision bars that come on P2 SLs? There are only so many ways those can move--usually up/down either where the basebar attaches to the stem, which is obvious to the naked eye since the flat part of the basebar won't be horizontal, or the extensions rotated up or down around the basebar. The extensions are fixed in length so there can't be any fore/aft movement, and it would be very odd for them to move in or out along the width of the basebar from hitting a pothole.
A level and a hex wrench are the only tools you need.
While you're at it, though, make sure the bolts in the stem and aerobars are greased or have blue loctite (aerobar extensions only) and make sure everything is tightened to the torque spec (need to borrow a torque wrench for this).
So I went to the LBS to get the tube and tires fixed . . . . My question: should I get another "Tri-Fit" which costs me $100 dollars or should I just try to move the Aero Bars around myself?
Just out of curiosity, how much did they charge you to get you a new tire and tube? You should be able to buy one off the shelf, grab a tube and do this yourself and save the money. And for the other element, no, you should not get another fit. All that happened was the bar extensions or bullhorns - or both - slipped inside the stem faceplate. Take an Allen wrench, loosen the bolts, adjust it to where it feels as it did before, and then re-tighten. I can't imagine they cut your stearing tube or changed stems or bar width or stacked spacers under bars, so they really didn't change the fit so much as move the bars a bit.
Be very careful not to over-tighten if any parts are carbon (bar, stem, extensions). I can hear it how: How do I know how tight they should be? Manufacturers usually list "bolt torque setting", like 55-70 inch/lbs, which is impossible to measure without a torque wrench which is exceedinlgy expensive. If you have expensive carbon parts and you're tightening things yourself, just don't crank down on it or you'll hear a nice little *pop* and whatever it was is now trashed. Most often I see this when people crank down on seat collars and put a hair-line fracture in the seat post.
While you're at it, though, make sure the bolts in the stem and aerobars are greased or have blue loctite (aerobar extensions only) and make sure everything is tightened to the torque spec (need to borrow a torque wrench for this).
We're on the same page. Please note PJT said 'grease' and not lube. Lube is for chains, derailleur pulleys. Grease - and an oh so tiny amount - is for carbon parts under pressure to keep it from delaminating (seat posts clamped down by collars; bars clamped inside stems). And yes, torque wrenches are borrowed, not bought.
And yes, torque wrenches are borrowed, not bought.
Torque wrenches are fine precision tools and are susceptible to falling out of calibration by poor handling. I would not want to borrow one.
If you are doing your own work (which PJT's later post confirms), consider one. Be sure to unwind it after use, don't drop it, and don't break ice with it and it should last you forever. Plus, you should be 'torquing' the lugs on your car wheels anyway.
FWIW, I prefer snap-on 3/8 drive - about $50 less than the ritchey, and with IMO, more credibility (but that's my auto racing bias)
Jeff
Semper Tri- Yeah I think I am just gonig to try to adjust myself
prendergi- it's hard to tell if the LBS moved them or it was due to the fall.
PJT- Thanks bro I will follow your advice; no measurements; I really think I am going to use the $100 for a massage instead of another Tri-Fit.
TriSooner- I got two new tires and a tube; around a $100. LOL thanks TriSooner for the advice; I am going to try to do this myself.
I have ZERO mechnically ability; it took me 30 minutes to change a tube the other day; lefty loosie righty tighty??Lol...my dad is a was a mechanic...too funny.
Thanks for your help peeps; I feel like you guys are more responsive and more of help than the LBS; I really appreciate everyones time.
I got two new tires and a tube; around a $100. LOL thanks TriSooner for the advice; I am going to try to do this myself . . . I feel like you guys are more responsive and more of help than the LBS; I really appreciate everyones time.
That's not too bad. I figured they'd get you with "labor". Really, it's not hard to change a tire. The hardest part about brand-new tires is getting the kevlar bead onto the rim for the first time. Tires are great ebay purchases too. Also, we aren't trying to sell you anything. :)
I feel like you guys are more responsive and more of help than the LBS
The power posters of this site seem to have more knowledge than anybody in my LBS. They lack the vintage casquettes though.
Jeff
thanks Trisooner- I am getting a little nervous for IMWI; I hope this bike problem is fixed.
Thanks again..
I have ZERO mechnically ability; it took me 30 minutes to change a tubeI feel like you guys are more responsive and more of help than the LBS
and the next time will take 15 minutes..and the next 10...etc.
Are there any other bike shops around you? The first shop i was going to rarely offered advice and I felt like a number, which I was, but thats not my kind of place. I went to another shop and have experienced the complete opposite. Advice is as readily available there as it is here on Trifuel. Not sure how to do something? They'll do it for you, or show you how and let you do it. They all ride, and understand the needs, understand/respect budgets and understand people.
i dont know what today will bring to me, but thats just fine.
Full disclosure: I do own a torque wrench. It's one of the Park Tools (beam style) ones. Nothing fancy, but it seems accurate enough even down to single-digit numbers. I hope.
"........ when they "fixed" or moved them they were moved in a position that doesn't feel right."
then THEY should put them back to where the should be, bring it back make them do it.
Dreams are the stars which charter the course of our lives. Happy the one who follows their dreams













I need some help guys. I have a cervelo P2SL and I had a tri-fit about 1 year ago; the position seems really aggressive, anyways.
I recently hit a pot hole that was filled up with water and I think the force moved my aero bars; and I ripped a tire and tube. So I went to the LBS to get the tube and tires fixed and I noticed my aero bars positions are a little out of whack and when they "fixed" or moved them they were moved in a position that doesn't feel right.
My question: should I get another "Tri-Fit" which costs me $100 dollars or should I just try to move the Aero Bars around myself? I have a big race coming up in Sept so I need this to be fixed quick and right. Suggestions?
-Mat