Fitted roadbike vs buying new fitted tri-bike
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3xFast posted 45 weeks ago.
To answer your first question, if you were to take your 5yr old Trek and stand it side-by-side with a comparable road bike from a 2009 lineup of any brand you might find:
- a lighter, stiffer frame
- new components, stiffer, more efficient
Compare it to a 2009 tri bike and add that to:
- aerodynamic frame design, faster in the wind tunnel, generally considered faster in real world
- aerodynamic and triathlon specific components: wheels, saddle, crankset...
Is your fit more of a road bike fit (i.e. approximately a 73 degree seat tube angle), or more of a tri bike fit (i.e. effective seat tube of 76 degrees or more)? If your muscles are optimized in a more laid back position then you may actually slow down by moving to a more forward position, at least until you retrain your muscles. You may not notice anything, or you might see an instant improvement. This is tough to know for sure without going for a good ride, but can be estimated on a Computrainer.
Not all tri bikes are created equal, some are stiffer, some better climbers, some more aero. I have not ridden a tri bike yet that is perfect for all conditions. That said the most important consideration is how well it fits.
Will a new tri bike handle the same as a road bike? I would argue no, they were designed with different purposes in mind. A road bike usually will climb and corner better than a tri bike. A tri bike is more stable with your weight on the front, and great for going long, straight, and fast.
Finally, I am not aware of any online database that will allow you to plug your measurements in and will spit out your ideal bike. Too many companies stake their life on making you, me, and your LBS pay for that information. That said a good specialty bike fitter should be able to take your results from a bike fit and show you a couple of bikes that will fit you. A really good fit specialist will tell you why one bike will be better than the next and if they don't have one that will work for you should be able to make some recommendations on what to look for in brands they don't offer. You may have to pay for a professional fit, so if you already have a fit specialist you are working with I would start with them.
Nick
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Gsal posted 45 weeks ago.
if your racing in age group worlds, im assuming that its ITU, in which case you can't even ride a bike with aerobars that extend past the brake hoods (so you cant really have any crazy aero setup or anything). Outside of ITU racing, tri bikes really will make a significant difference from a fitted road bike just because of your positioning. But if you already made it to worlds and plan to go again, i wouldnt sell your road bike to get a tri bike because you have to have a road bike (or a tri bike with a different bar setup which is a pain in the a-s-s) for ANY ITU racing that you participate in (because its draft legal)
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Anton posted 45 weeks ago.
Age group Worlds on your rodie? "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
"If e wishes to sweem in dangerous waters, oo are we to deny im?
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xc800runner posted 45 weeks ago.
Gsal wrote:
if your racing in age group worlds, im assuming that its ITU, in which case you can't even ride a bike with aerobars that extend past the brake hoods (so you cant really have any crazy aero setup or anything). Outside of ITU racing, tri bikes really will make a significant difference from a fitted road bike just because of your positioning. But if you already made it to worlds and plan to go again, i wouldnt sell your road bike to get a tri bike because you have to have a road bike (or a tri bike with a different bar setup which is a pain in the a-s-s) for ANY ITU racing that you participate in (because its draft legal)
Drafting is illegal in Age Group worlds.
To the OP: if you have detailed measurements for your fit (BB to saddle height, sadle position, stem length, aerobar deimensions, etc.) you can use these to determine "stack and reach" via Dan Empfield's fitting ideals. Then compare your values to those of tri bikes here. It'll take a bit of geometry and trigonometry to figure it out, so if you're not good at that stuff (or can't remember it from when you were 16) pm me with your fit data and I'll get back to you with your Stack/Reach.
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jnrice posted 45 weeks ago.
TriSooner wrote:
Anton wrote:Age group Worlds on your rodie? "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."+1 You might get marginal improvement in a tri bike, but I wouldn't buy into the "OMG! You MUST ride a tri bike" hype if are already a top AGer.
yeah, I hear that but in non-draft legal races a TT bike will help shave seconds. Don't expect it to take you to the top of the podium unless that is currently what's holding you back. However, a few seconds is a few seconds no matter how you get them. I say get a TT bike and keep training. the Geometry of a Tri bike is set up to utilize the muscle groups that triathletes tend to have in excess apposed to how a pure cyclist tends to be built. Face it, we run and they don't so lets use what we got more of.
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Gsal posted 45 weeks ago.
xc800runner wrote:
Gsal wrote:if your racing in age group worlds, im assuming that its ITU, in which case you can't even ride a bike with aerobars that extend past the brake hoods (so you cant really have any crazy aero setup or anything). Outside of ITU racing, tri bikes really will make a significant difference from a fitted road bike just because of your positioning. But if you already made it to worlds and plan to go again, i wouldnt sell your road bike to get a tri bike because you have to have a road bike (or a tri bike with a different bar setup which is a pain in the a-s-s) for ANY ITU racing that you participate in (because its draft legal)Drafting is illegal in Age Group worlds.
Isn't Age Group worlds regulated by ITU?
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xc800runner posted 45 weeks ago.
Gsal wrote:
Isn't Age Group worlds regulated by ITU?
Yes, but for the AGer's you don't get to draft. Similar to any other AG world championship. Or even the long-course worlds for the pros. No-drafting. It's only allowed in the ITU world/continental cups.
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runmargierun posted 45 weeks ago.
Thanks xc800runner and jnrice - great feedback. It makes sense that if i change to a tri bike that it might take some time to realise the benefits of one - ie develop the new neuro-muscular connections if I have to use different muscles. I suppose if I decide to get a tri bike, the sooner I get training on it the better.
Are the "stack and reach" the equivalent of "seat-tube and top-tube" lengths?
You're correct - non-drafting races only for us age-groupers at the Worlds (and all other non-pro races that I have raced in).
xc800runner - How does one pm? I can't see any link to do that.
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jsk85 posted 45 weeks ago.
runmargierun wrote:
Are the "stack and reach" the equivalent of "seat-tube and top-tube" lengths?
No, they are basically numbers of how you should be positioned in space (not to a specific bike), then your ideal position can be compared to see where you'll fit best. On the slowtwitch site you were linked to before, there are like 10 articles really breaking down stack and reach. You only need to read the first couple overview ones to get a basic understanding though
Unfortunately, seat tube and top tube measurements don't tell much since similar measurements can be seen on completely different geometries.
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xc800runner posted 45 weeks ago.
At the top of the page, click "Messages" It'll get you to a page where you can type in my handle and send a message.
Sorry, yet another tri vs roadbike question.
I have done pretty well race-wise to date (age-group Worlds) on a roadbike customfitted to make it good for me for tri's, of which I have mostly done Olympic distance - duathlons and triathlons. Everyone (coaches, LBS people and hardened roadbike enthusiasts) keep telling me I really need a tri-specific bike to take it to the next level (top of podium!?)....that the new technology really does make a difference. ( I have a TREK roadbike that is 5 years old). But will it really make a difference over the 40k distance? Even if the race is really technical (lots of turns and hills)?
If I know the measurements for a proper fit for a tri position, is there somewhere on the 'net I can plug in my measurements and find the "ideal" make/model of bike frame for me?
Thanks in advance.....