Quantcast

road tires

panchotri's picture
Posts
287
Member
1717 days
started by panchotri on February 4, 2005

I’m looking to get new tires but don’t know which are best. The local store carries their brand with 6 different types of tires!. There are other brands with as many different types. The catalog shows the description of the tires: Clin/Sew, Fold, Keviar Belt, size, Psi (max). What does these means? What should I look for? Is the weight of the tire matter? Thanks.

swimbikerun_boy's picture
Posts
74
Member
1299 days
swimbikerun_boy posted 3 years ago.

I'm also wondering this
I posted on another forum and alot of people recommended the "Michelin Carbon"
They said this was a great handling, durable and fairly inexpensive tire.

just my 2cents

Peace
Tyler

:cool: ~~Cheers~~ :cool:

PrinceofClydes's picture
Posts
1521
Member
1394 days
PrinceofClydes posted 3 years ago.

For the quickest acceleration and sharpest handling you want the lowest possible weight at the rim, ie. farthest from the hub.

A heavy rim, tire or bead, takes more of your energy to accelerate, like a fly-wheel in your car: a light flywheel accelerates quicker, but a heavy one has more momentum once it's rolling.

Sew-ups, or "Glue-on" tires, are lighter than clinchers, but are generally more expensive (and messier) and are smoother riding and generally faster.

A kevlar bead (not belt), as opposed to a metal bead, on a clincher is a compromise - it is lighter and easier to install, but usually more expensive.

Kevlar "belt" tires are supposedly tougher more flat resistant tires, better for training than racing. They may be considerably heavier than sew-ups, and therefore slower to accelerate, taking more energy from the rider - important for short course or sprint performance, but only if you are already a contender. For anybody less than an expert rider, who has a chance of placing, the seconds you save with a "Formula One" tire are outweighed by the potential loss of minutes, fixing a flat.

Psi (max) = pounds per square inch or tire pressure, and is determined by the manufacturer. The higher the pressure, the faster the ride, but.. out on the road it can be difficult to get really high pressure into the tire after a flat. CO2 cartridges are a nuisance and expensive if you flat a lot, and nobody carries a foot pump out on the road.

We all want the fastest, smoothest tires. 2 factors determine the choice for riders: cost and convenience.

Size is about 2 things: 700 refers to your rim size
18, 20, 25, as in 700x18 or 700x20 refers to the profile of the tire, ie. its height above the rim when inflated.
Lighter riders can ride on 700x18 tires. Clydes like me need 700x25s on the back, or else we get a lot of pinch flats. A lower profile tire is usually faster and more energy saving, which means a hard low profile tire is also a slightly harsher ride due to vibration.
Bikes with 700 on the back, and 650 on the front, called "funny bikes" were popular for a bit, but proved a headache because you must carry two, different sized, spares.

There are tread pattern differences too, but this is largely irrelevant to anyone less than expert racers. One exception to this is the weather you usually ride in. tri-bro lives in Oregon, he gets a lot of rain I bet. Slick treads are fine on dry roads, but will wipe out on wet roads.

Once you have decided on the tire system there is nothing to choose in quality between the top manufacturers your shop carries.

regards,
PoC

"Pain doesn't last, chicks dig scars, glory is forever!"
- Shane Falco.

catwood's picture
Posts
819
Member
1342 days
catwood posted 3 years ago.

thank's poc, that was helpful...
I use some cheap tough tires for training and then some lighter slicks (specialized mondo s-works) for racing. I also keep an old shot tire around for the winter when I'm on the trainer a lot. I know its a pain to switch tires every time I have a race, but there is so much glass and so many potholes on the roads around Boston that its pretty rough on the tires. I'd rather not replace tires that often and I want to race in lighter tires as I need to be able to accelerate quickly for cycling races... I'd say with my system I go through fewer sets of tires and get few flats than most people I ride with.

panchotri's picture
Posts
287
Member
1717 days
panchotri posted 3 years ago.

Guys, thanks for the information tips. PoC are you using new tires for your IM? How often you change tires? Does the rule of no new tennis shoes for a marathon applies here. No new tires for IM race?

PrinceofClydes's picture
Posts
1521
Member
1394 days
PrinceofClydes posted 3 years ago.

I would look at my tires a week or so before the race, say during the taper when I'm going stir crazy! heh..
If there is no obvious sign of wear, I'd go with them.
New tires are almost foolproof but I test the tubes by inflating them before I pack the spares in my bag. Why take a chance?

Cat, I change tires regularly too, for various reasons. I can do it during a TV commercial break, nothing to it. I changed a tire tonight because I decided to change the bike I was using on the trainer and it had a new tire on it so I switched that for an old spare. Don't want to wear out a good tire on the trainer now, do we?

PoC

"Pain doesn't last, chicks dig scars, glory is forever!"
- Shane Falco.

BrianB's picture
Posts
60
Member
1266 days
BrianB posted 3 years ago.

I just got my first bike (Trek 1200C) for Christmas and I did buy a small hand pump that mounts under one of the water bottles....I read that "nobody carries a foot pump on the road" from PrinceofClydes...I don't want to look like a dork, so should I take it off my bike?

panchotri's picture
Posts
287
Member
1717 days
panchotri posted 3 years ago.

Not at all, and you are not the only one with the small hand pump in your bike, just look around next time you’re riding. Better safe than sorry!

PrinceofClydes's picture
Posts
1521
Member
1394 days
PrinceofClydes posted 3 years ago.

BrianB wrote:
I just got my first bike (Trek 1200C) for Christmas and I did buy a small hand pump that mounts under one of the water bottles....I read that "nobody carries a foot pump on the road" from PrinceofClydes...I don't want to look like a dork, so should I take it off my bike?

I have one of those mini-pumps too. It mounts on a clip beside my downtube water bottle bracket.

I hope I was not being unclear. I use a handpump on the road. For training I might even carry the mini-pump, but the one I carry in races is a full-length handpump that fits under my top tube.

The foot pump is that thing you stand on between your feet and use one, or even two hands to lift and press down on. They work great and I see people using them to top up their tires pre-race but are way too bulky and heavy to strap on the bike. That's why "nobody carries a footpump on the road." :)

Try stuff out on training rides and find out what you are most comfortable with.
And never worry about looking like a dork by having equipment that works. Jimmy Riccitello, a top pro, was standing on the side of the road during the St Croix Half IM, begging passing riders for a spare tire and pump because he neglected to pack his own! He had been leading the race when he flatted. Who looked like a dork that day?

PoC

"Pain doesn't last, chicks dig scars, glory is forever!"
- Shane Falco.

BrianB's picture
Posts
60
Member
1266 days
BrianB posted 3 years ago.

Thanks PoC...I thought you meant the big foot pump, but just wanted to be sure.

I am also a backpacker and I follow the same rules on equipment that you suggest for cylists. I see folks on the trail with near to nothing as gear, clothing, shelter, etc. They may be a little more comfortable hiking with less weight on their back, but I am more prepared and ready for anything that comes my way in the mountains. I also have a better workout carrying a heavier pack...nice side benefit for us maniacs!!

ThommyM's picture
Posts
47
Member
1302 days
ThommyM posted 3 years ago.

RE: Brian B post for gear,
For a half IronMan and longer, as well as weekend long rides, I like to carry 2 small tire levers, 2 tubes
saturated in baby powder in a small plastic baggy, and 2 CO2 cylinders and a CO2 trigger actuator..
You would be amazed how little space this takes up, when I place these items into a small, clear, thick plastic bag, and roll all these items up tightly (like a sleeping bag) into a small roll. It is then secured
with velcro straps onto the back of my XLab saddlewing (water bottle holder). After flatting 10 miles into a half-ironman, I didn't have to hold my breath and pray that I would not flat again in the next 46 miles, which could be a race-ender for the "1 tube-1 CO2 cartridge" carriers. Hope this helps. PS, I highly recommend the XLab saddlewing. I love mine, especially with the added "x-hook" that allows you to hang your bike by the rear-end of the seat, so you can pull it off the rack faster.

BrianB's picture
Posts
60
Member
1266 days
BrianB posted 3 years ago.

Thommy - I have the levers, 2 tubes, and a multi-tool, but no baby powder or CO2. Thanks for the input and I will adjust accordingly. I carry a small tool pouch under my seat....Also holds cell phone and cash....