Mechanical Question
Strange. And highly annoying. When you shift to an easier gear you get zero tension and it's like a car in neutral? So it's like the chain is momentarily floating between cogs and then it finaly makes it way down a gear?
I'm no Sheldon Brown, but it might be a bent rear derailer hanger, a bad link in the chain, or you may need a rear derailer adjustment. No?
Then my first question is whether you have a 9spd or 10spd rear cog. If you have a 9spd rear cog - but a 10spd chain - it could be possible that the narrower 10spd chain (they are narrower, aren't they?) take a second to make that jump between the wider 9spd cog spacing. Either way, make sure you have 9 and 9, or 10 and 10.
Next, I'd check my cable tension. But since you only changed chains 200 miles ago, the cable tension probably didn't change over night.
Next, I'd measure to see whether the chain is a link or two too long. Did you measure the chain so it is the same length as the old one? If it is too long the derailuer won't put enough tension on the chain to move it up/down the cassette more quickly. New chains come pretty long, in my expereince. Quick fix is to buy a 'chain pin tool' <$10 and take it out a link to two. And be sure to use a 'quick release link' if you don't already have one. Sounds time-consuming, but it's not. Nothing more satisfying that the point-of-no-return 'pop' you get while ratcheting down on a chain pin tool and removing a pin.
Another thought may be that the chain, while new, is not lubed enough and may be sticking to the cog it is trying to shift away from. Even if is sticks for just a second it will translate to you noticing it staying in the wrong gear while you spin.
That's my best guess.
Thanks for the info.
When I shift down a gear, it shifts but there is that time of no tension on the crank and then i feel it catch.
It is a 9 speed and I checked the chain length with the old chain before I put it on. I checked the chain and the links are all good.
I will check into the bent derailer and the cable tension.
You need a new cassette. Often when you replace one you need to replace the other. Your cassette has worn in to your old chain. You may also want to check your front chainrings for wear as well.
Or it could just be cable tension. Check that first, as it is free to fix. Spin the cranks keep spinning them. I like to use my trainer for this job. Now start shifting up and down the whole cassette. If there is any hesitation evident in the shift, Turn the barrel adjuster a little bit (one full rotation is a lot) and see if that helps. If not, go the other way.
If you cant get your cable tension to solve your misshifts, it is likely your cassette.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
I think Triguy is right. If the cassette was worn the chain would be skipping at random times, not only when shifting.
Are you only having trouble shifting to a bigger cog? Then unscrew the barrel adjuster a 1/4 turn at a time until it goes away. The opposite if you are having trouble going to a smaller cog.




Hi folks
I just put on a new chain on my road bike. I have now put about 200 miles on it.
I have noticed that when I shift to an easier gear on the rear cassette - there is that intermittent zero tension. IE - I spin and then it catches. This is not a major issue but I was wandering if I can do something to correct it so that when I shift, it immediately catches.
Please note that this does not happen all the time, and I do not want to fork out $50 for a tune up if I can quickly assess and fix the issue myself.