new cassette requires new chain?
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1240 days
JamieM posted 11 weeks ago.
I think a new chan would be a good idea, for the most part chains get replaced before a cassette does. And replacing the chain more often will likely help the cassette last longer. chain moBut I wouldn't worry so much about switching the chain based on the wheels you are using.
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Nutty posted 11 weeks ago.
If you've got that many miles on it, id replace the chain. But you only need to switch them back and forth if your two cassettes have different numbers of cogs on them. If they're both the same, then leave the new chain on all the time and use the old one to take people out during the bike leg road rash style.
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bluebirdbiker posted 11 weeks ago.
if you replace the chain regularly you will not have a problem with the cogs of the cassette wearing and as a result the chain slipping when you buy a new chain. Replacing the chain before this stretching:
http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/wornbicyclechain...
http://www.bikecyclingreviews.com/images/1/worn_chring.jpg
will prevent excessive wear of the front chain rings and rear cassette. If the chain does not skip on the rear cassette when it is new, that means it is fine. To check and see if the chain needs replacing do what you see in the pics. If there is daylight as you pull the chain from the teeth, it means replacement is a necessity before the cassette and front chain rings get buggered. If the front chainring looks like a 'ninja star' with pointy teeth, then you should replace it. Likewise, contrast the teeth of the diff. cassette rings you commonly use and those of, say the 12 tooth cog (least used). If there is a large contrast in their shapes it is likely time to replace the cassette. Hope this helps.
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TriSooner posted 11 weeks ago.
Whoa, WAY too many miles on your chains. Chains stretch and wear down your cogs on the casseette. The cogs will start looking like shark fins and then the chain will start slipping. Chains are much less expensive that cassettes. Hardcore roadies will change it every 500. I think about changing it at 1,000. And no, you don't need a different chain for differerent cassettes UNLESS one is a 9-speed and one is a 10-speed (the 10 uses a slimmer chain). You CAN use the same chain for a 11X25 and 12X27 cassette, for example. Either way, change is good. Get a chain pin tool, and quick link, and a new chain for < $50.
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1072 days
PJT posted 11 weeks ago.
+1 to everything trisooner said (though I've been known to stretch my chain life to up to 2k miles, that's probably not the best idea).
If you are on a 9 speed, I love SRAM chains. Affordable and tough. They include a removable link so you can easily take the chain off. It's much easier to clean both the chain and your derailleurs this way.
For 10 speed, I like an Ultegra chain and a Wipperman removable link.
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TriSooner posted 11 weeks ago.
PJT wrote:
The quick link is the epitome of big bang for the buck: A little piece of metal totally changes how easy it is to clean the chain, cassette, and adjust chain lenght. Buy a chain, like a SRAM, that comes with a quick link. Then even if you change chain brands in the future (ie, move over to Wipper or Shim), keep the quick link and use the pin tool to insert it into the new chain.
If you are on a 9 speed, I love SRAM chains. Affordable and tough. They include a removable link so you can easily take the chain off. It's much easier to clean both the chain and your derailleurs this way.
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1513 days
kylie posted 11 weeks ago.
I have to say I'm agains the wipperman links -- I have tried them on 2 different bikes -- and with both bikes the link didn't work well and caused shifting problems and one even made me have to replace the chain and cassette from the damage. Just my experience... but I go with a regular chain now.
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M posted 11 weeks ago.
So if 5000 is way too long, and 1000 is where one might start to consider a replacement, and 2000 is a stretch...
I've been thinking about mine lately (Shimano 105 9-sp). I am approaching about 1300 on it and am doing a half on June 1. Should I replace before the half? I gather that it's harder to see chain wear by visual inspection than in the past but is there anything to look for as a reason to definitely replace it?
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1072 days
PJT posted 11 weeks ago.
M wrote:
So if 5000 is way too long, and 1000 is where one might start to consider a replacement, and 2000 is a stretch...I've been thinking about mine lately (Shimano 105 9-sp). I am approaching about 1300 on it and am doing a half on June 1. Should I replace before the half? I gather that it's harder to see chain wear by visual inspection than in the past but is there anything to look for as a reason to definitely replace it?
There is a cheap tool called a chain guage or chain checker that can tell you if your chain has stretched to the point of needing replacement. If you don't want to do it yourself, a bike shop can check for you. You can also do a visual check--things like corrosion are a good sign that it is time to get a new one.
Also consider your riding style--if you did those 1300 miles in a steady fashion with the chain line relatively straight and cleaned your bike every other week, you may be able to stretch the life somewhat longer. If you stand on the pedals, hammer up hills, cross chain, and let your bike get so dirty it leaves a chain-shaped tattoo on your calf every time you ride, then you are more likely to need a replacement.
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PJT posted 11 weeks ago.
kylie wrote:
I have to say I'm agains the wipperman links -- I have tried them on 2 different bikes -- and with both bikes the link didn't work well and caused shifting problems and one even made me have to replace the chain and cassette from the damage. Just my experience... but I go with a regular chain now.
What were the other drivetrain components on those bikes? I ask because I could not get the SRAM 10 chain to play nice with my shimano cassette and rear derailleur. Even though they are supposed to be compatible I had skipping etc. The shimano chain with wipperman link has been working pretty well for me.
Another option is the KMC missing link, although those are theoretically for 1-time use. I keep one in my blowout bag in case of a broken chain.
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1513 days
kylie posted 11 weeks ago.
All shimano drivetrain on both bikes -- I thought it was an isolated situation or actually caused by something else until the other one did the same thing. With how often I take the chain off, and how easy it is to do with all normal links, I will just stick with those.
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M posted 11 weeks ago.
Thanks PJT for the advice. I will probably just ride by the LBS and get their opinion. I don't stand and hammer up hills, but I do a bit of cross-chaining here and there.
i have about 5000 miles on my chain and just got a new cassette for my race wheels, do i definiately need a new chain too? then when i put my training wheels back on i guess i have to put the old chain back on? i didnt realize i had to do all this until i had already got the new cassette