Spacers under handlebars (perhaps over?)
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ryanweeg posted 15 weeks ago.
Typically, if you want to lower your stem you would remove the stem and take the spacers out, the stem back on the steerer tube, then put the spacers on top of the stem and then the headset top cap. If the spacers bother you above the stem then you can cut the steerer tube. Most would recommend experimenting and being sure of your comfort before cutting the steerer tube.
Also, if there is only 2.5 mm of steerer tube needing spacers you can purchase different spacer sizes typically 2.5, 5, and 10 are used. But you can use one of your 5mm spacers and have it extend past the top of the steerer tube and then have the headset top cap hold it down. Typically, you need atleast half of the spacer length covering the protruding steerer tube.
Sorry if this was confusing, hope this helps.
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fastdog5 posted 15 weeks ago.
Not sure if this is the "correct" way, but yes, that's what I've done - over time have removed one spacer at a time and stacked it on top.
791
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231 days
TriSooner posted 15 weeks ago.
ryanweeg wrote:
Typically . . . hope this helps.
+1. Also, you can invert/flip over your stem. If you have a +10 degree rise in your stem, invert it and you have a -10 degree rise. I've done that for short sprints.
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GGehrke posted 15 weeks ago.
Having the steerer tube sticking out the top without spacers is a bad thing because I'm not sure how you correctly adjusted your headset bearings without it. When you put the front end together, you should leave the stem bolts loose and use the top cap to put the correct pressure on the stem and ensure the bearings are snugly in place. If you have steer tube extending above your stem, you need spacers above it so the top cap has something to push down on. I am under the understanding that exact headset adjustment is less important these days with cartridge bearings, but my technique is usually to tighten down the top cap until I can just start to feel resistance in turning the handlebars (indicating that the bearings are being squeezed too tight) and then back off a smidge until they turn freely but still feel solid. Then you tighten the stem bolts and, if you want, you can loosen the top cap a little more. You should also test their tightness by applying the front brake and pushing forward and backward on the handlebars to see if they wiggle in the headset. It's also okay to err on the side of having 1-2mm extra spacer extending above your steer tube, but not the other way around. Again, the top cap needs something to push down on.
Beyond that, having spacers above your stem is a fashion faux pas falling somewhere on the continuum between wearing a primal jersey and yelling "close that gap!" out of turn 1 at a cat-5 training race. It announces that you're too chicken to commit to a lower riding position and irreversibly cut your steer tube. I have a whopping 20mm of spacers above my stem ;)
285
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cjhoffmn posted 15 weeks ago.
That was perfect all. Thanks. I just threw them in my bag for the moment, but when I get home I'll put one on the top. I'll also check into getting a 2.5mm as I think that will fit perfectly.
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burnman posted 15 weeks ago.
TriSooner wrote:
+1. Also, you can invert/flip over your stem. If you have a +10 degree rise in your stem, invert it and you have a -10 degree rise. I've done that for short sprints.
+1. With about 6 weeks left on the trainer this winter, I removed 40mm worth of spacers and inverted the stem, giving me a net drop of around 75-80mm (3+ inches). If you're making any dramatic adjustments like this, you will definitely benefit from a good fitting. I had to push my seat up/back to maintain good extension, and move my aero bars forward to clear my knees.
833
Member
1255 days
JamieM posted 15 weeks ago.
By the way I'm reading this, the steerer tube is sticking out of the stem and you just have the top cap of the headset bolted into it? If that's correct, I wouldn't ride it until you straighten it out.
If the steerer tube is sticking out of the stem, you have to put the spacers on top before you ride it. There needs to be 2-3 mm of space between the top cap and the top of the steerer tube. This space is what allows you to adjust the tension of the headset, i.e. by tightening down on the top cap.
If the steerer tube is sticking out and you just put the top cap in, you're likely running a loose headset, which can lead to all sorts of problems. Put the spacers on top of the stem, tighen down properly and you're good to go.
791
Member
231 days
TriSooner posted 15 weeks ago.
GGehrke wrote:
That's funny. Finally, someone else who notices people trying way too hard. :)
Beyond that, having spacers above your stem is a fashion faux pas falling somewhere on the continuum between wearing a primal jersey and yelling "close that gap!" out of turn 1 at a cat-5 training race.
285
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338 days
cjhoffmn posted 15 weeks ago.
Gherke and Jamie - you nailed it. That's what I was concerned about and the reason I posted :) What I did was tightened the stem bracket down after, in effect, hand bracing the stem down on the steerer tube, then simply put the top cap back on. It was alot of work to both get it straight and tight. With the spacer on the top, I can leave the stem bracket loose, use the top cap to tighten down and then tighten the stem bracket. Makes perfect sense.
I had 20mm of spacers below, now I have 10mm of spacers, so I'm getting a bit lower, but it didn't feel drastic. I was fit on the bike last fall, and was amazed at the gains I got from that. I've been considering a "tune-up" fitting given that I've spent a lot of hours on the bike since then and I'm getting much more comfortable.
Frankly, the space seemed to scream "newb who doesn't know" and I was afraid I was going to have to wear a pink pastel jersey with flashing yellow lights as a result, so it bothered me all night. The thought of the hack saw did come to mind when I got there, but I figured I had this cool group of forum folks that could help me avoid that fate...
To tri or not to tri - that's not a question at all!
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TriSooner posted 15 weeks ago.
burnman wrote:
Excrutiating.
giving me a net drop of around 75-80mm (3+ inches)
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1255 days
JamieM posted 15 weeks ago.
cjhoffmn wrote:
The thought of the hack saw did come to mind when I got there, but I figured I had this cool group of forum folks that could help me avoid that fate...
What kind of steerer is it? Carbon and you'll need a hacksaw, electrical tape, and one of these http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=49&item=SG%2D6.
Alloy - just pick up a cheap pipe cutter.
Or just take it to the shop, like most normal people would.
285
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338 days
cjhoffmn posted 15 weeks ago.
Normal people?
It's alloy and I do have a pipe cutter... but I think I'm ok with the spacer on top.
Thanks all.
To tri or not to tri - that's not a question at all!
I've been adjusting my bike fit a little this week. After all my base training this winter, it seems I'm getting more comfortable leaning over a little more, so I wanted to lower my handlebars.
I had 4 spacers (5MM I think) underneath my stem and I've now removed two of them and dropped the stem. Problem is when I did that, there's a bit of the fork tube (actual name?) that sticks up above the stem. There's a cap that screws down on top, but it only screws down as far as the top of the fork tube. It looks like there's about 2.5mm of fork tube visible between the top of my stem bracket and the cap.
I left it as such for the moment, but wondered if I should put one of the spacers on top? If so, should I find a smaller one, or use one of the ones I have and have the cap tighten down to the spacer?
To tri or not to tri - that's not a question at all!