Bike computer to use on a trainer
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Sully800 posted 22 weeks ago.
Just sit on your seat backwards so you can read the display when its above the rear wheel :-P
Actually, I was under the impression that most wireless computers would be able to pick up the signal if mounted on the back wheel. I never tried it with mine, because I figured trainer rides were already pretty dissimilar from riding on the rode, and therefore "speed" isn't very important. I instead paid attention to perceived effort and HR, and the good cyclists on this board will tell you to watch your power readings. But based on your "cheap" comments, you most likely don't have a HRM or power meter, so perceived effort is probably your best bet.
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178 days
smashburn posted 22 weeks ago.
My wireless unit would not pick up when I moved the sensor to the back wheel. I had to move the 'computer' to the crossbar right in front of the seat. The instructions said something like 18" max distance between them.
I just look straight down to read it. Get's the job done but is not the best solution. I move it back to the front for rides.
Steve
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chrisgood1 posted 22 weeks ago.
I have a wired one it is the Cateye Astrale 8 it has a cadence sensor so the cable is made to go that far back. It is set up to run off the back wheel and works great on the trainer.
If your going to do something wrong enjoy it.
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jsk85 posted 22 weeks ago.
I have the same problem with my wireless, but I go more Sully's route of just not worrying about speed on the trainer. I don't think it'd be accurate to speed at the same exertion on real road conditions anyways.
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480 days
trimas posted 22 weeks ago.
You may want to look at a Cateye CC-CD300DW. It's their double-wireless version that mounts on the chainstay. I have one on my roadie and like it alot.
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327 days
ChunkyB posted 22 weeks ago.
I have a Garmin Forerunner 305, and the speed/cadence sensor uses the back wheel for speed, so that work great for indoor training. I know this is an expensive solution, but if you already have a forerunner, then just use that.
I also had a Sigma BC1600 (wired) and the wire was long enough to reach the back wheel, so that would also work.
"The melting point of wax means nothing to me": Thrice
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TriSooner posted 22 weeks ago.
Sully800 wrote:
I figured trainer rides were already pretty dissimilar from riding on the rode, and therefore "speed" isn't very important. I instead paid attention to perceived effort and HR . . .
Why do you need a computer? Your speed on a trainer is zero.
66
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361 days
Toothless posted 22 weeks ago.
+1 for Cateye Astrale. Get it with cadence to track that too.
Powertap works better if you want to splurge.
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kylie posted 22 weeks ago.
another for the Cateye Astrale 8. Cheap and gets the job done.
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RV posted 22 weeks ago.
trimas wrote:
You may want to look at a Cateye CC-CD300DW. It's their double-wireless version that mounts on the chainstay. I have one on my roadie and like it alot.
I had this and it worked great - nice because it does cadence and speed both wireless. I only replaced it for the Garmin 305 w/ speed and cadence.
RV
It takes a long time to get good. - Scott Molina
Slow is smooth; smooth is fast. - Rich Strauss
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blavelle posted 22 weeks ago.
or the regular cateye stada. it has a rear wheel mount and the wire goes under your frame. I believe the wireless one is backmounted too?
"now I only have good days and great days."
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RV posted 22 weeks ago.
blavelle wrote:
or the regular cateye stada. it has a rear wheel mount and the wire goes under your frame. I believe the wireless one is backmounted too?
Ya there is a single mount with two sensors - one for cadence and the other for speed off the rear wheel.
RV
It takes a long time to get good. - Scott Molina
Slow is smooth; smooth is fast. - Rich Strauss
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knight22 posted 22 weeks ago.
I have both the Cateye Strada Cadence and the Cateye Astrale 8. Both work great and are relatively inexpensive.
1659
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PrinceofClydes posted 22 weeks ago.
I don't even know what the make of my 'puter is. I got it for $12 on sale from a flyer ad in the paper.
I spliced a piece of speaker cable in to make the sensor wire longer so I could mount the 'puter on the handlebars.
At first I tried mounting it on the top tube between my legs but it was hard to read down there in the shadow of my body, and it got sweated on.
It doesn't matter whether it is accurate as compared to road riding, what matters is that it is consistent one training ride on your Cyclops to the next (which it is) so you can compare exertions, duration, pace, etc. then log your training and observe progress.
Just keep on, keeping on.
PoC
"Pain doesn't last, chicks dig scars, glory is forever!"
- Shane Falco.
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Ultrarunner posted 22 weeks ago.
Thanks for all the advice. I can always count on this group for help.
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cjhoffmn posted 22 weeks ago.
I've got a cateye *and* a Kurt Kinetic that would both work and you PM me and are interested, I'd sell you one or the other for a very reasonable amount. One advantage to the Kurt Kinetic is that is also has an algorithm to estimate power. Its not perfectly accurate, but I found it useful until my blind luck stumbled me into a powertap for a steal of a price.
PM if you like - I'm happy to work out a reasonable deal as they are just sitting in electrostatic bags in my storage area now...
To tri or not to tri - that's not a question at all!
177
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Ultrarunner posted 21 weeks ago.
Thanks cjhoffman for the offer...One of my buddies gave me his computer for $10 and he used that to help himself buy a new one. Thanks all for your advice. I always appreciate it.
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374 days
tbs_craig posted 21 weeks ago.
i second trisooner,
you dont need a computer to tell you your speed is zero.
the only concern i cn see for a trainer might be cadence, but other than that its really just about percieved effort
So here is the deal, I am too cheap to buy a $400 trainer that would measure speed and distance and everything else. I have a Cyclops Mag Trainer, but I am looking for a bike computer that I can put on the back wheel to measure distance, and speed. I was not sure if the cable was long enough to run from the wheel to the handle bars. I tried a wireless one but couldn't get the thing to read out on the display. If I took the display off the bars and brought it closer it would work. Any ideas? Is anyone else as cheap as me and currently doing this?