building a tri bike
181
Member
240 days
psychosyd posted 6 weeks ago.
It is generally cheaper to buy a complete bike (especially on older models.) Not difficult to build if you have a little bit of knowledge.
Make sure you get the proper size of frame. This is very important. Different frames fit very differently as well. A 58cm frame from Cervelo fits differently than a 58 from Scott (this is id especialy important with tri specific bikes). This will take a bit of research on your part. Once you have the proper sized frame the actual details of your fit should be taken care of by a professional bike fitter (unless you really know what you are doing!! and even then an extra set of eyes is helpful). If you are building, it is generally cheaper to buy a complete grouppo as opposed to individual elements. So if you are happy with, for ex., Dura Ace, buy the full grouppo at once.
A little research can make the experience a lot of fun, but you need to be careful, take your time and do the leg work, and you will be rewarded.
111
Member
793 days
fpugsley posted 6 weeks ago.
I am actually doing this right now, and I am having a blast doing it. It really is not that hard, and there are a lot of online resources to guide you (www.parktool.com)
I have worked on my own bikes for years, so I have acquired tools over that time. You will need some basic stuff to put it together: Hex wrench set, BB tool, Cassette tool, chain whip, shift housing cutter, torque wrench, etc, or have a shop do the assembly for $150-$200
I bought the following components for my build:
Frame - $1k
Ultegra Crank & BB - $150
Ult FDer - $40
Ult RDer - $70
DA Shifters - $80
Ult Cassette - $60
Cane Creek Brake Levers - $25
Ult Brake Calipers - $70
Profile T2 Wing Basebar - $40
Stem - $40
Bar Tape - $10
Chain - $25
Total ~ $1,600 (mostly new off ebay) www.excelsports.com has good deals on custom build kits if you dont want to shop too hard, but i saved like $400 by being patient.
I already had wheels ($however much you want to spend) and an aero bar Profile Carbon Stryke ($125)
If I think of more info later, i will update this after work is over!
-->what was said above about size is REALLY important. I know my requirements of stack and reach, so i chose appropriately. slowtwitch has a list of stack and reach of most if not all tri bikes.
-Frank
oh yeah, this is a week old, but the cranks and chain go on tonight, and are the last pieces of the puzzle.
41
Member
115 days
xc800runner posted 6 weeks ago.
I just completed a build of a 2004 Cervelo P2K and took it out for my first ride today. Wicked Fast. 30k in just over 45 min along the lake front in Chicago.
Pricing as follows:
Frame set: 420
FSA K-Force Crankset: 280
Profile CX1.5 Integrated Bars: 320
SRAM Carbon Shifters: 100
SRAM Carbon Brake Levers: 85
Force FD: 40
Force RD: 100
Force Brakes: 90
Cables/Housings: 20
Edge Full Carbon Saddle: 80
Look Keo Sprint: 100
KMC X10SL Gold Chain: 45
KCNC Superlight Cassette: 120
Total Cost: 1800
Toss in my training wheels/tires I picked up for 300 (Ritchey Alta Race with Rubino Pros)
and the total cost comes to just over 2k, which is about the cost of a new P2SL with inferior components (especially in the bars, cranks, and cassette/chain, and I find SRAM to be superior to anything vomited up by Shimano). Overall cost came out to 3100 with my race wheels/tires.
41
Member
115 days
xc800runner posted 6 weeks ago.
I tried uploading a photo, but am experiencing problems with file size constraints. You can see it with race wheels, but not yet complete in the photo section:
2266
Member
1124 days
Triguy98 posted 6 weeks ago.
In general, it can be difficult t build a tri bike on a budget. If you go used for everything, it becomes more affordable. The biggest thing is the frame. Tri frames are valued higher than roadie frames. Not to say there arent deals out there, but if you score a tri frame and fork for under $500, you've made out pretty well. New tri frames tend to start and $1000 and go up big time from there. Wheels are another hard part to find really good deals on. You typically can get some good deals over the winter months.
I personally love building bikes, I have built several inluding two MTBs and a roadie for myself, as well as a couple others for friends. But it is real hard to beat the deals from the factories. Less than $2k can get you a full DA drive train, nice aerobars, and great wheels.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
59
Member
398 days
saydee1800 posted 6 weeks ago.
you are best to go to ebay and buy a compete bike (swap out what you don't like)
111
Member
793 days
fpugsley posted 6 weeks ago.
Triguy98 wrote:
Less than $2k can get you a full DA drive train, nice aerobars, and great wheels.
Where can I find a full DA bike with nice bars and wheels for $2k?
I also forgot to mention, everything I purchased was new. Nothing used.
I second what xc800 said. Everything I have invested was about $2k including the wheels and that is with far superior components than anything else in that price range.
1
Member
42 days
jj-tri posted 6 weeks ago.
brock54 wrote:
I currently have a road bike that has served me well through my many sprint races but really like the tri bikes I have seen. I also am a guy who likes to build things and take pride in completed projects. I'm considering trying to build a tri bike this summer and wondered if any of you had done this before? If so, how successful were you? Was cost comparable to just purchasing a bike? Is this horribly difficult to do? Any advice on these questions or any others that anyone could give me would be greatly appreciated.Thank you, bw
I am looking at doing the same. I have added the Profile Design Ahead seat post, that moves you that much forward compared to a regular road seat post. I have a couple of trial runs on it and it feels much more aggressive. Also not too sure if I need to swap out my road bars/aerobars for the triathlon bars. Just wondering if I can use the existing cables or if I need to retrofit the cables with a new set of tri bars. Suggestions? Thanks.
41
Member
115 days
xc800runner posted 6 weeks ago.
jj-tri wrote:
Just wondering if I can use the existing cables or if I need to retrofit the cables with a new set of tri bars. Suggestions? Thanks.
You'll need new cables and housing for the front end if you plan on using bull-horns. You "may" be able to salvage the brake cables/housings, but they will likely need to be cut to size if you don't want useless extra clogging up the front. Since the sifters are placed out farther on aerobars, you'll need additional housing to run to them and your cables will likely be too short. These are pretty cheap, though. Your LB should get them to you for around $2 per foot.
39
Member
247 days
callco posted 6 weeks ago.
Amen to building. Especially from eBay. Personally, I think the best bang for the buck comes from "renovating" a bike. Find something that fits and has most of the right stuff. Then remove, fix, clean, swap, borrow, build, buy, steal (whatever you gotta do) the rest.
I'm into my Litespeed (full dura-ace) about $2K with that approach.
Before...
After...
2266
Member
1124 days
Triguy98 posted 5 weeks ago.
fpugsley wrote:
Triguy98 wrote:Less than $2k can get you a full DA drive train, nice aerobars, and great wheels.
Where can I find a full DA bike with nice bars and wheels for $2k?I also forgot to mention, everything I purchased was new. Nothing used.
I second what xc800 said. Everything I have invested was about $2k including the wheels and that is with far superior components than anything else in that price range.
http://www.trisports.com/20qrtetribi.html
$2500 gets you carbon http://www.trisports.com/20qrsetribi.html
K factor is not quite full DA http://www.trisports.com/kuk10520.html
And a Cervelo P2SL DA build runs in at $1850.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
111
Member
793 days
fpugsley posted 5 weeks ago.
Triguy98 wrote:
http://www.trisports.com/20qrtetribi.html
$2500 gets you carbon http://www.trisports.com/20qrsetribi.html
K factor is not quite full DA http://www.trisports.com/kuk10520.html
And a Cervelo P2SL DA build runs in at $1850.
Those are all great deals, but I think we differ on what constitutes 'good' wheels.
2266
Member
1124 days
Triguy98 posted 5 weeks ago.
The wheels on all the bikes exactly what training wheels should be. Servicable and reliable. Are they the lightest? Nope. Do they need to be? Not really. I actually make my training wheels as heavy as possible. In either case, you could always upgrade them before the purchase.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
997
Member
778 days
UFTriGator posted 5 weeks ago.
fpugsley wrote:
Those are all great deals, but I think we differ on what constitutes 'good' wheels.
...and full DA.
______________________________________________
-Matt
Not fast enough.
I currently have a road bike that has served me well through my many sprint races but really like the tri bikes I have seen. I also am a guy who likes to build things and take pride in completed projects. I'm considering trying to build a tri bike this summer and wondered if any of you had done this before? If so, how successful were you? Was cost comparable to just purchasing a bike? Is this horribly difficult to do? Any advice on these questions or any others that anyone could give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, bw