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50x34 vs 53x39

tri-ac's picture
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started by tri-ac on March 18, 2008

i bought my bike as a noob to tri's and to cycling too, and i never reallly looked at my big ring and just assumed that it was a 53x39. i actually bothered to read the rings when i was last cleaning the drivetrain and lo and behold, it's a 50x34

i now am envious of the 53x39 for no good reason than it's bigger...at what point would you decide to use one versus the other?

blavelle's picture
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blavelle posted 30 weeks ago.

hows it working out for ya? how often are you in the highest gear available? if the answer is "a lot" then you could switch to a 53x39 but if its "not a lot" then you're fine. I actually switched from a 25 to a 27 on my P2C because of the terrain I ride. I know its kind of immasculating to need an "easier" gear but living in PA there arent too many flat rides. I also like the ability to spin more instead of using more leg muscle to get uphill, it saves your legs for the run.

"now I only have good days and great days."

tri-ac's picture
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tri-ac posted 30 weeks ago.

I'm not spinning out or anything...but i'm a big person, and i have this feeling that if i'd started w/ a 53x39 I'd have been obliviously riding a little faster than I am now with similar effort. How much harder can the 53x39 really be? [asked naively]

the rear cassette I understand a little better...

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GGehrke posted 30 weeks ago.

blavelle wrote:
I know its kind of immasculating to need an "easier" gear but living in PA there arent too many flat rides.

If it makes you feel any better, I use a triple :P

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PJT posted 30 weeks ago.

You would not be riding any faster unless you put forth more effort. I think the 50-34 combo is superior for all but the strongest triathletes. Consider:

1. It's easier to maintain a good 90 cadence at your desired heartrate because the "jump" in effort from gear to gear in the back is proportionally smaller when you have a 50 tooth front ring than a a 53.

2. You keep a straighter chainline using the 50, because you are able to use the smaller rear cogs more often than with a 53. This saves wear and tear on your chain, chainrings, and cassette.

3. You have extra bailout gears for hard climbs (and if you slap a 12-25 or even 12-27 on the back--it's like a stealth triple).

4. Not a huge deal, but a compact crank is lighter than a full-sized.

Bottom line, unless you routinely pedal when going faster than 33 MPH, a compact is generally the better bet.

I have a compact on my road bike, and I'm switching to one on my tri bike this spring.

If you really feel you must try a bigger front, check to see if whoever makes your compact crank sells larger chainrings that are still compatible with the compact. FSA, for example, sells a 50/34 compact crank, but you can easily switch out the chainrings to go up to 52/38 without having to remove the crank--which is a PITA.

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fpugsley posted 30 weeks ago.

Long story short... if you spend a lot of time going 30+mph, you need a 53x39.

All in all, you are going to shift to a gear you can comfortably ride, and whether it is 53x15 or 50x12 (frontXrear) its the same effort. (I dont know if those 2 gears are equal, but its just an example)

The deal with a 'compact crank' which you have is that it is closer to a triple in front, BUT you dont lose much. You lose about 1mph over a 53x11 vs 50x11, and you end up gaining a few lower gears you didnt have.

I am a big guy who is strong on the bike, and if I could get a compact crank on the cheap (because i am on a budget) i would definitely ride one.

a 12x23 cassette is more like a 12x25, and therefore your gears are closer together.

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RV posted 30 weeks ago.

I ride a compact and put an 11x23 on the rear - I think a 50x11 actually works out to be a bigger gear than a 53x12. Compacts are great.

RV

It takes a long time to get good. - Scott Molina
Slow is smooth; smooth is fast. - Rich Strauss

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catwood posted 30 weeks ago.

I have compacts on both my bikes - wouldn't change for anything (with 11-23). "Both my bikes" I like how that sounds - it makes me so happy that I have 2 bikes now.

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kylie posted 30 weeks ago.

Compacts are AWESOME
I will also let you know that some strong bikers (Rich Strauss and Rich of Wheelbuilder, to name a couple) also ride compacts. So it doesn't have to mean you are a weaker rider! :)

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theShiba posted 30 weeks ago.

This is a great thread... I'm actually not super happy with my gearings, and I am thinking of going compact.

But, if I have DA cranks, couldn't I just switch out the rings, or do I have to get a whole new crank? Right now it's 53x39.... I actually like the 39, but it's the 53 that I'm not such a fan of... would I be a total freak for switching the 53 for a 50 and leaving the 39? Would that somehow give me too little differential between the two rings?

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PJT posted 30 weeks ago.

theShiba wrote:
This is a great thread... I'm actually not super happy with my gearings, and I am thinking of going compact.

But, if I have DA cranks, couldn't I just switch out the rings, or do I have to get a whole new crank? Right now it's 53x39.... I actually like the 39, but it's the 53 that I'm not such a fan of... would I be a total freak for switching the 53 for a 50 and leaving the 39? Would that somehow give me too little differential between the two rings?

Some regular cranks can handle a 50/39 setup. I'm not sure if the DA is one of them. Check with Shimano's website or your LBS. If you're fine with the 39 inner chainring and can handle the hills pretty well, there's nothing wrong with keeping your current crank and putting a 50 on the outer ring. It is certainly cheaper and easier to install than a whole new crankset. You may have to adjust your front derailleur, but the problems with most FDs start when there is too big of a jump between chainring sizes, not too little.

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fpugsley posted 30 weeks ago.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

Use that calculator, and you can see how the changes will affect your ride

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UFTriGator posted 30 weeks ago.

I'm going to go against the flow on this one: I find it easier to push over standard cranks. It's probably easier for most people to spin with a compact, but how often are you just spinning during a race?

______________________________________________
-Matt
Not fast enough.

tri-ac's picture
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tri-ac posted 30 weeks ago.

this has all been great info...thanks guys! exactly what i was hoping for...i learned some new stuff!

now, i need to go sit on someone's bike and see the difference...i suspect it's going to be in moving up to the 39, not moving up to the 53: the 53 sounds like it's all fun and puppies; the move up to the 39 makes hills seem a little more daunting (i have some in mind)

i'm going to check out the sheldon brown link too...i also have been wondering what the equivalent gearing to a 42x16 on my bike would be (i'm interested in getting a fixie for my commute and i'd like to feel that on some of the hills along the way)

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GGehrke posted 30 weeks ago.

tri-ac wrote:
i'm going to check out the sheldon brown link too...i also have been wondering what the equivalent gearing to a 42x16 on my bike would be (i'm interested in getting a fixie for my commute and i'd like to feel that on some of the hills along the way)

I run 44x16 fixed (165mm cranks, though). Hills loaded with groceries are not fun, but manageable, and cruising on flats is gravy. I think it's a good setup for the job.

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danpatgal posted 30 weeks ago.

I use 53x39 on two bikes. With my old 7-speed in the back, I'm rarely in too tall a gear, despite some rolling hills here in PA. On my newer 10-speed, I don't really use the lower cogs in back, so a compact might help. Or, even a 48 tooth single, since most of the tri's around here don't have huge hills. I put a 45T single on my commuter and really love it. It's simpler, lighter, easier to clean, and only a minor inconvenience on the few steeper hills I encounter. With one smaller cog in the back I'm also just as fast (spinning a little faster) on the downhills.

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kylie posted 30 weeks ago.

theShiba wrote:
This is a great thread... I'm actually not super happy with my gearings, and I am thinking of going compact.

But, if I have DA cranks, couldn't I just switch out the rings, or do I have to get a whole new crank? Right now it's 53x39.... I actually like the 39, but it's the 53 that I'm not such a fan of... would I be a total freak for switching the 53 for a 50 and leaving the 39? Would that somehow give me too little differential between the two rings?

The 53/39 has a bigger bolt pattern -- so the distance from the pivot point of the cranks to the ring's bolt is greater. If you put the 50/34 rings on, the bolts end up so close to the teeth that they can hit the chain.

So in most cases, yes, you need new cranks. However, some do allow it. Compact cranks need a 110 BCD, and regular cranks often use a 130 BCD. You can find out what yours is by looking on the rings now on your bike -- they should just say it.

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kakman posted 29 weeks ago.

I've just bought a new bike (Cervelo Team). My previous bike had standard cranks - 53/39. During a service I'd had the cassette changed to a 12-27 because 1) I'm old, 2) I have a bad back and don't like to grind and 3) because some rides I do have nasty hills.

I've never regretted the decision to go 12/27 but there were still some hills that were killing me and I found I spent about 80% of my time in the small ring. I've never really run out the big gear because I can spin pretty quickly.

Based on these things, I went compact (50/34) and 12-27 for the Cervelo. My cranks are a couple of mm longer. I now find I spend most of my time in the big ring and when I do ramp up in speed I don't find I'm missing all that much top end (at 50/12 @ 100rpm I'm seeing low-mid fifty kms). It's unlikely I'll ever average close to that in a tri.

I also figured it was easier (and cheaper) to change a rear cassette than a crankset. So far I'm happy with the decision and I will just swap the cassette if I get a lot stronger. At the end of the day, I'd rather sacrifice a bit of top end speed for the ability to ride (rather than walk) up a tough hill.

cheers
/k

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catwood posted 29 weeks ago.

Check out fsa - they make a really wide selection of chainrings. I don't think you can get all the way to a 50-34 with a 130bcd, but I'm pretty sure you can do a 50-36.

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PJT posted 29 weeks ago.

catwood wrote:
Check out fsa - they make a really wide selection of chainrings. I don't think you can get all the way to a 50-34 with a 130bcd, but I'm pretty sure you can do a 50-36.

I'm pretty sure the smallest inner ring you can put on an FSA 130BCD crank is a 38-tooth, which is a bummer for me as a weakling on the hills who currently has a full-size FSA-SLK crankset.