Bike Suggestions
168
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447 days
krazyfranco posted 23 weeks ago.
I was in your shoes about a year ago. I ended up shopping online and buying used. Check out craigslist and ebay. Visit your bike shop to see the alternatives. Also, there are probably a bunch of archived threads on this very topic, so you can search those using the google box in the top-right corner of this window.
27
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163 days
Newbie9 posted 23 weeks ago.
Thanks krazyfranco. The big hurdle I have about buying from Craigslist and Ebay is that I don't know much about bikes to know if I am getting the right size and type for my body. Will LBS fit you and tell you what you need even if you don't buy a bike from them. I know you can go online to find out how to measure yourself but I really don't trust my ability to do that.
168
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447 days
krazyfranco posted 23 weeks ago.
I think getting fitted at an LBS is going to cost you, maybe 100 bones or so? I'm not really sure.
911
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281 days
ChunkyB posted 23 weeks ago.
I was in the exact same boat as you about 4 months ago. I found a great bike (2004 Raleigh Supercourse, full 105 components) for $600. I found it on craigslist. I would seriously consider getting a road bike, especially if you're going to be doing triathlons. If that's your price range, I would look for something with 105 components, or comparable from other makers.
You can go into a bike shop and test ride some bikes. You'll be able to get an idea of what size you'll need. If you want to actually get fitted after you buy the bike, it will cost you, but it's definitely something they do.
I would tell anyone to buy on craigslist, because you can ride it before you buy it, and you can save a ton of money buying used, and you don't have to pay tax (that's a big one). I would shy away from ebay if you don't know EXACTLY what you want. You can find some really good deals, but if you get it and you don't like the ride, you're kind of screwed.
If you find a bike that you're considering, post it here (and try to make it clear that you're not spamming as this is pretty common) and ask for opinions. Good luck.
"The melting point of wax means nothing to me": Thrice
622
Member
433 days
Iron Dan posted 23 weeks ago.
Go to your local bike shop and either tell them what you are planning on doing or act like you are seriously shopping, either way they should help you figure out what size bike is best for your size. Once you find out what size bike is good for you, you can either buy an entry level bike through the bike shop or look online and try to get a higher quality bike that is used at a better price. Good luck with you search and let us know if you have any questions. Also, I would suggest looking at different bikes that are for sale new and do some research on what different types of components are so that you can be better prepared so you don't get ripped of if you decide to buy new. You can also always ask here for our opinions before you buy something to see if it seems like a good deal or not.
1474
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958 days
tri-ac posted 23 weeks ago.
look here for the general frame size criteria
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit
this should be enough for you to go see a bike found on craigslist and determine if it works for you.
then, spend the $$ on the fitting at your LBS once you get the bike, and have your LBS tune it up (another ~$60) once it's all set up with the finalized geometry.
2316
Member
1199 days
Triguy98 posted 23 weeks ago.
Find an LBS that sells used and check that out first. I have seen some incredible deals in my shop from time to time. Like a full Dura Ace Cannondale with brand new DA brakes- for $400. I got my first MTB "used" at the same shop for $400- and there wasnt a scratch on it. Be forthright in your intentions by telling them you are looking for a used bike, and cannot afford a new one. They might have some models on closeout that fit your budget or know someone who has something for sale. If the shop isnt helpful at all, or gives you too megative of an attitude, try a different shop.
If you dont find something locally, then look on craigslist and ebay. Also try the roadbikereview.com classifieds. Go for a roadie, you are not liekly to finds a tri bike in decent shape at this price point.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
717
Member
216 days
TriSooner posted 23 weeks ago.
#1. Find an LBS that sells used. This should be easy if you live in a large metro area. Small town shops, not so much. This way you can get fit. #2. If you can't buy from an LBS you can at least get an idea about "size". There is a difference between getting "fit" for a bike and knowing what size you need. Getting fit typically costs $$$ and they spend all kinds of time and energy changing seat posts, stems, crank lengths etc. But figuring out if you need a 48 or 50 takes about five minutes. Just tell they sales guy you are interested in an entry-level road bike. S/he will size you up, refer you to a certain frame size. Politely look and say, "Thanks," and remember that frame size. Then when you know you need a 50 frame, for exampel, you can shop on #3. Ebay. Find the frame size you need on ebay IN YOUR ZIP CODE and check it out in-person. Any serious cyclist will understand. Take it for a spin. Then #4 take the used bike to your LBS and pay to get it fit. Everyone wins. You get an affordable frame and the LBS gets a customer. They can fit you for it (about $100 as has been indicated), adjust/tune it up for you, and if you have the $ you can get a new stem (which will totally change the fit of the bike), a new saddle, some clipless peddles, etc.
27
Member
163 days
Newbie9 posted 23 weeks ago.
Anybody hear of the company/Bike below...
I know I would be nieve to think I could get a new $1300 bike (What they list it as) for 599 but if it looks like a bike comparable to a $800/$900 bike it might still be worth a try.
Here is what I could find for details...
Tommaso Monza 2008 (Intermediate Race)
Item#: RB86080101
MSRP: 1349YOU SAVE: 56.0%
Online Price: $599.00
Never heard of the company before but since I am relatively new it seams like I hear about a new company every day.
Here are specs:
Equipped with Shimano's 105 and Tiagra componentry. Tommaso's frame geometry improves comfort, stiffness, and handling. Most importantly, Fatigue is minimized while efficiency and performance are increased. Tommaso's geometry is great for riders who tackle all kinds of terrain but demand a fit with comfort.
The Monza is equipped with the beautiful FSA triple crankset, and super-light carbon fork to get you up the most difficult climbs with a smooth vibration free ride. Combine that with Shimano's 105 and Tiagra series components, Alex wheels and Ritchey bars and stem combination and you have the opportunity to spend hours in the saddle comfortably while performing at an elite level.
A lifetime warranty, high performance comfort design, reliable lightweight components, and an incredible price all point to one thing - your next bike!
Tommaso Monza's Premium Specs:
Specifications
Frame: Semi Compact, Butted Alloy Road Frame, 1-1 1/8" Integrated Headtube, Replaceable Derailleur Hanger
Fork: Carbon FiberLegs, Alloy 1 1/8" Steerer
Rear Shock:
Front Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra
Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105
Shifters: Shimano Tiagra
Brakes Levers: Shimano Tiagra
Brakes: Tektro Alloy
Chain: KMC HG-73
Crankset: FSA Vero, 30/42/52T
Cassette: Sun JuJu 11-24T, 9Speed
Pedals: Not Included
Bottom Bracket: FSA, 68X118 MM
Headset: 1 1/8" Integrated
Saddle: Selle San Marco, Ponza Lux
Seat Post: Alloy, Micro Adjust
Handlebar: Ritchey Biomax, 28.6 MM
Grips: Vello Bar Tape
Stem: Ritchey
Tires: Kenda Kontender, 700X26C
Wheelset: Alloy 32H, 14G Stainless, Alex R500
Weight:
Color: Black/Tour Yellow or Silver Metallic/Red
Thougts?
27
Member
163 days
Newbie9 posted 23 weeks ago.
Picture attached if that helps.
Ok Nevermind.. I can't seem to attach the picture. I am assuming that most of you will know quality by the components anyway. If you need the picture let me know and I will find away of adding it.
2316
Member
1199 days
Triguy98 posted 23 weeks ago.
That bike isnt reallly that much of a deal- Tiagra shifters are pretty cheap and sloppy. Theyre better than Sora, but you really dont wanna settle for anything less than 105 for your shifters. The cassette is also REAL low end. Try to stick to SRAM or Shimano spec there. Even the lower end Shimano cassettes are far better than anything Sun is going to crank out. They are basically a walmart brand.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
2316
Member
1199 days
Triguy98 posted 23 weeks ago.
For price references- I just built a full Ultrega group Trek 2300 with Rolf Vector wheels for around $500. All used but in decent shape. You CAN find these deals if you look around. a 4 year old 105 or Ultrega bike is usually a lot better than a new $500 bike.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
379
Member
374 days
stewarba posted 23 weeks ago.
Couple of comments:
I agree if this is your first attempt at tri not to drop alot of money on a new bike. Alot of people get addicted after their first race, but there are alot that walk away with the "I'll never do that again" mentality. I got mine on eBay as I was in your shoes this time last year. The bike is made from a Canadian company called Dawes. Decent starter bike that I bought new for $350. I have made some minor upgrades to it over the past year and really think for the money I did pretty good. In fact, I plan on using it again this season while I save up for a Tri-specific bike. However, having said that, I will caution you that if you buy a new off brand bike for between 3-500 bones and you really get into it, you can drop alot of money in a hurry on accessories for your bike bringing your total up to the entry point for a decent brand name bike. Just something to think about.
My second comment is in regards to your LBS. Most small businesses have no problem helping you find a used bike because the thought is if they are helpful and you really enjoy cycling, you will remember them when you are ready to drop serious coin - plus most of those guys are Bike geeks anyway and just want to help. As previously mentioned, just be honest and talk with them. More than likely alot of them don't make alot of money and appreciate the fact that cycling isn't exactly cheep.
Goals in writing are dreams with deadlines – Brian Tracy
2008 Sprint Tri A race goals
S: 500m in 10:00 – FS Stroke only
B: 22mph avg over course
R: 5K <= 25:00
Place top 50% for my age group
27
Member
163 days
Newbie9 posted 23 weeks ago.
Ok so my first attempt at finding a bike was shot to flames.. Seriously thanks for the feedback. I would rather spend more $ on quality then less on junk. It seems like I always end up with more questions after each post which I guess is part of learning but are there key things that you can look for to make this process easier.
For example.. Is weight of the bike the most important piece. Meaning if you find 2 bikes with similiar components do you always choose the lighter (assuming both feel comfortable to you)
I have also heard comments like the one from Triguy98
Triguy98 wrote:
Tiagra shifters are pretty cheap and sloppy. Theyre better than Sora, but you really dont wanna settle for anything less than 105 for your shifters. The cassette is also REAL low end. Try to stick to SRAM or Shimano spec there. Even the lower end Shimano cassettes are far better than anything Sun is going to crank out. .
How much do things like Shifters and Cassettes make a difference in a bike?
Is it like stereo speakers where you can spend $300 or $10000 but only 10% of the population would ever know the difference? If I found a bike with 105 Shifters but it had a low end cassette is that better then a high end cassette and a low end shifter?
Is there a priority and recommended brand for the components.
Hopefully this all makes sense. Sorry for asking so many questions but you all have no one to blame but yourselves for being so helpful : ) You have created a forum monster in me : ).
Thanks again....
379
Member
374 days
stewarba posted 23 weeks ago.
The only real complication in Triathlon is the bike - way to many moving parts and to be honest, everyone has their preferences. Which is what I like about the run and swim segments. Do you have good shoes and a good pair of goggles? Then go forth and conquer! With a bike its question after question. I would recommend that you approach your first bike as a "throw away" meaning that you can spend about $500 dollars and get a decent bike that will be functional for you. Understand that if you really enjoy cycling, you WILL end up scrapping it in time for something else, but by then you will have formulated your own preferences and things that you will look for in a bike. When you got your first car, you probably were only concerned with the fact that it got you from point A to point B. Over time you have maybe decided that you like to get from point A to B with heated leather seats, GPS and a top of the line stereo - but understand that ultimately, you are still only going from point A to B.
Goals in writing are dreams with deadlines – Brian Tracy
2008 Sprint Tri A race goals
S: 500m in 10:00 – FS Stroke only
B: 22mph avg over course
R: 5K <= 25:00
Place top 50% for my age group
2316
Member
1199 days
Triguy98 posted 23 weeks ago.
A cassette and shifters are THE biggest contributors to the shifting performance of a bike. The The shifters being number 1. Sloppy, ineffective shiftersw ill nto allow the bike to function as it should, nor last as long as they should, resulting in frustration and money lost. Other than the frame, and sometiems the wheels, the shifters are the most expensive thing on the bike and as thus, pricey to upgrade. You would be looking at ~$150 for new 105 shifters. But then you need to pay for installation, which includes new cables and labor.
The cassette is second most important, in that it allows the chain to smoothly move betwen cogs as the shifters tell it to. Some people think this is the derailleurs function, but the RD just guides the chain according to the shifters directions. The ramping and pinning of the cogs are what allow the shift to be smooth.
Life is short. Play hard and get dirty doing it.
Looking for some suggestions on a bike. I am looking to do my first sprint marathon in August. I can spend up to $700 but would like to stay around $550 especially since once I get more into the sport I am sure that I will want to upgrade. Any thoughts on Mountain vs. Road Bike? I am actually competing in the mountain bike division this year and started to shop for a mountain bike but for the riding that I do (Praire paths and street) I was told that a road bike is probably my best bet plus the speed difference between the 2 would be significant. I also really doubt I will continue in that division in the future.